Item 2018.164.2 - Nigel Cabourn Aircraft Jacket Harris Tweed Liner

Identity area

Reference code

2018.164.2

Title

Nigel Cabourn Aircraft Jacket Harris Tweed Liner

Date(s)

  • 2013 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

2 of 2

Context area

Name of creator

(1989-)

Biographical history

Cricket Clothing Ltd 1971–88 Nigel Cabourn 1989–present
Nigel Cabourn (b. 1949) founded his first brand Cricket Clothing Ltd in 1971, during his final year of study at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design. Paul Smith became his agent in 1972, assisting him to get his designs into retail outlets across the UK. Nigel Cabourn collections were shown in Paris from 1973 to 1985. In 1980 the Nigel Cabourn name was licensed to the Japanese company Anglobal who continue to distribute the brand in Japan and elsewhere in the world. The company was financed from 1985 to 1988 by Peter Bertelsen’s Aguecheek firm, which also financed John Galliano, Richard James and Alistair Blair. In 2000, Ted Baker assumed commercial responsibility for the Nigel Cabourn menswear brand, including marketing, production and distribution. The label became known for its use of Cabourn’s personal archive collection of between 3,000 and 4,000 workwear and military garments. In 2002 they began to focus on special limited-edition collections, starting with their Everest collection ‘The Ascent of Nigel Cabourn’, released in 2003. Garments included the Antarctic Parka and the Cameraman Jacket. The company formed a three-year partnership with Debenhams in 2005 to create the Nigel Cabourn Utility collection. In 2014 the first Nigel Cabourn store, The Army Gym, opened at 28 Henrietta Street, London. By 2018, the company had expanded to four distinct lines: Nigel Cabourn Authentic, manufactured in the UK; Nigel Cabourn Mainline, manufactured in Japan; Lybro, a reimagined version of the British workwear brand founded in 1927; and Nigel Cabourn Army Gym. The label has collaborated with a variety of brands, including Gloverall, Eddie Bauer, Henri-Lloyd, Tretorn, Converse, Closed, Fred Perry, Karrimor,
Converse, Red Wing, Umbro and Filson.
Sources: heddels.com; redingote.fr; Retail Week; The Evening Chronicle; The Journal; WWD.

Name of creator

(1909-present)

Administrative history

Harris Tweed is a registered trademark protected by a 1993 Act of Parliament and the Harris Tweed Authority. By this statute Harris Tweed cloth must be: 'Handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.'

Until the middle of the 1800s wool tweed cloth woven in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland (the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra) was sold locally. From the 1850s it began to be sold more widely and became progressively popular which also led to it being copied. In 1909 the Harris Tweed Association Limited was formed and the Orb and Maltese Cross emblem with 'Harris Tweed' underneath was registered to provide certification of the cloth produced.

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Scope and content

Harris Tweed blue and charcoal herringbone striped liner that attaches inside the Aircraft Jacket with six gold press studs that run down the centre front and one at the centre back neck. There are two gold press studs on the left breast that do not fasten to the jacket. It fastens with four horn navy buttons and features two patch pockets and a breast flap pocket on right side that fastens with gold press stud.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      100% cotton Lining: 100% nylon Feather down. 100% wool collar 100% fur trim around hood.
      Colour/Print: blue/charcoal herringbone
      Details: patch pockets, poppers
      Label: Made in England. Authetic Nigel Cabourn England. Size 48. Hand Woven Harris Tweed Handwoven in the Outer Hebrides from 100% Pure Wool. 100% pure new wool NC-W13-OW-4 100% Wool

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