Item 2018.165 - Nigel Cabourn Everest Parka

Identity area

Reference code

2018.165

Title

Nigel Cabourn Everest Parka

Date(s)

  • 2004 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(1989-)

Biographical history

Cricket Clothing Ltd 1971–88 Nigel Cabourn 1989–present
Nigel Cabourn (b. 1949) founded his first brand Cricket Clothing Ltd in 1971, during his final year of study at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design. Paul Smith became his agent in 1972, assisting him to get his designs into retail outlets across the UK. Nigel Cabourn collections were shown in Paris from 1973 to 1985. In 1980 the Nigel Cabourn name was licensed to the Japanese company Anglobal who continue to distribute the brand in Japan and elsewhere in the world. The company was financed from 1985 to 1988 by Peter Bertelsen’s Aguecheek firm, which also financed John Galliano, Richard James and Alistair Blair. In 2000, Ted Baker assumed commercial responsibility for the Nigel Cabourn menswear brand, including marketing, production and distribution. The label became known for its use of Cabourn’s personal archive collection of between 3,000 and 4,000 workwear and military garments. In 2002 they began to focus on special limited-edition collections, starting with their Everest collection ‘The Ascent of Nigel Cabourn’, released in 2003. Garments included the Antarctic Parka and the Cameraman Jacket. The company formed a three-year partnership with Debenhams in 2005 to create the Nigel Cabourn Utility collection. In 2014 the first Nigel Cabourn store, The Army Gym, opened at 28 Henrietta Street, London. By 2018, the company had expanded to four distinct lines: Nigel Cabourn Authentic, manufactured in the UK; Nigel Cabourn Mainline, manufactured in Japan; Lybro, a reimagined version of the British workwear brand founded in 1927; and Nigel Cabourn Army Gym. The label has collaborated with a variety of brands, including Gloverall, Eddie Bauer, Henri-Lloyd, Tretorn, Converse, Closed, Fred Perry, Karrimor,
Converse, Red Wing, Umbro and Filson.
Sources: heddels.com; redingote.fr; Retail Week; The Evening Chronicle; The Journal; WWD.

Name of creator

(1938-)

Administrative history

Ventile is a special woven cotton fabric that is trademark registered. It was developed by scientists at the Shirley Institute in Manchester in the late 1930s. Extra-long-staple cotton fibres are used to weave a tight density fabric which is weatherproof. During the Second World War it was used to make immersion suits for pilots. From 1943 until 2017 it was made by Talbot Weaving in Chorley, Manchester. It is now produced by Stotz & Co. AG a Swiss manufacturer.

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Scope and content

This parka, made from ventile cotton, fastens with a zip and features a double button stand. Four black horn buttons are on the right side, with an additional button on the centre-left, allowing the wearer to layer the button stands for added protection. It has a six-panel snorkel hood, shaped with four pleats at the peak, supported by wire, and lined with sheepskin. The hood is trimmed with genuine fur and equipped with cotton drawcords tied in a hangman knot, secured with Union Knopf ‘pig’s nose’ wooden locks and discs. The parka includes a draw-waist with cotton canvas weave draw tape running through a sewn-in channel for waist adjustment. A throat tab provides extra wind chill protection. Elasticated cuffs and hem ensure a snug fit. The front features two large storm envelope pockets, secured with real black horn buttons for additional secure storage. The interior is lined with khaki nylon, padded with feather down, and includes two contrasting beige jetted zipped breast pockets.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      100% cotton proofed. 100% cotton Lining: 100% nylon Feather down. 100% wool collar 100% [coyote] fur trim around hood.
      Colour/Print: Orange
      Details: Ventile, windproof, hood, fur collar, feather down
      Label: Nigel Cabourn Limited Edition Issue no. 125. Made in England. Goosedown survival anorak. Style no. 0010. Genuine Ventile. 100% cotton proofed. 100% cotton Lining: 100% nylon Feather down. 100% wool collar 100% fur trim around hood.

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      EVEREST PARKA
      Nigel Cabourn
      2004

      Cabourn’s obsession with the authenticity of functional menswear has led him to recreate several historical garments, including this replica of the jacket worn by Sir Edmund Hillary during the Mount Everest expedition in 1954. It is made from Ventile, a technical woven cotton fabric developed in Manchester in the 1930s. Its unique properties make it waterproof, windproof and have excellent breathability.

      Cotton, nylon, wool, fur
      Archive no. 2018.165

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      EVEREST PARKA
      Nigel Cabourn
      2004
      On 29 May 1953, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest (named Sagarmaˉthaˉ in Tibetan and Chomolungma in Nepalese). This interpretation of a photograph of Hillary’s expedition jacket exemplifies Cabourn’s commitment to creating historically inspired and functional menswear. The parka has a six-panel, snorkel-shaped
      hood with four pleats at the peak, a wire support, and a sheepskin lining with fur trim to withstand temperatures below zero. In addition, it has elasticized cuffs and a hem for a secure fit, as well as down-feather padding. A cotton canvas weave tape secures the waist drawstring, and a neck tab provides additional wind protection. The hood has cotton drawstrings with a hand-tied hangman’s knot and a Union Knopf ‘pig’s nose’ wooden lock and disc stopper.
      Cotton, Nylon, Wool, Fur
      Archive no. 2018.165

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