Identity area
Reference code
Title
Date(s)
- 2004 (Creation)
Level of description
Extent and medium
Context area
Name of creator
Biographical history
Nigel Cabourn (b. 1949) founded his first brand Cricket Clothing Ltd in 1971, during his final year of study at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design. Paul Smith became his agent in 1972, assisting him to get his designs into retail outlets across the UK. Nigel Cabourn collections were shown in Paris from 1973 to 1985. In 1980 the Nigel Cabourn name was licensed to the Japanese company Anglobal who continue to distribute the brand in Japan and elsewhere in the world. The company was financed from 1985 to 1988 by Peter Bertelsen’s Aguecheek firm, which also financed John Galliano, Richard James and Alistair Blair. In 2000, Ted Baker assumed commercial responsibility for the Nigel Cabourn menswear brand, including marketing, production and distribution. The label became known for its use of Cabourn’s personal archive collection of between 3,000 and 4,000 workwear and military garments. In 2002 they began to focus on special limited-edition collections, starting with their Everest collection ‘The Ascent of Nigel Cabourn’, released in 2003. Garments included the Antarctic Parka and the Cameraman Jacket. The company formed a three-year partnership with Debenhams in 2005 to create the Nigel Cabourn Utility collection. In 2014 the first Nigel Cabourn store, The Army Gym, opened at 28 Henrietta Street, London. By 2018, the company had expanded to four distinct lines: Nigel Cabourn Authentic, manufactured in the UK; Nigel Cabourn Mainline, manufactured in Japan; Lybro, a reimagined version of the British workwear brand founded in 1927; and Nigel Cabourn Army Gym. The label has collaborated with a variety of brands, including Gloverall, Eddie Bauer, Henri-Lloyd, Tretorn, Converse, Closed, Fred Perry, Karrimor,
Converse, Red Wing, Umbro and Filson.
Sources: heddels.com; redingote.fr; Retail Week; The Evening Chronicle; The Journal; WWD.
Name of creator
Administrative history
Repository
Archival history
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
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Conditions of access and use area
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Language of material
Script of material
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Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Colour/Print: Orange
Details: Ventile, windproof, hood, fur collar, feather down
Label: Nigel Cabourn Limited Edition Issue no. 125. Made in England. Goosedown survival anorak. Style no. 0010. Genuine Ventile. 100% cotton proofed. 100% cotton Lining: 100% nylon Feather down. 100% wool collar 100% fur trim around hood.
Finding aids
Allied materials area
Existence and location of originals
Existence and location of copies
Related units of description
Notes area
Note
Invisible Men exhibition label:
EVEREST PARKA
Nigel Cabourn
2004
Cabourn’s obsession with the authenticity of functional menswear has led him to recreate several historical garments, including this replica of the jacket worn by Sir Edmund Hillary during the Mount Everest expedition in 1954. It is made from Ventile, a technical woven cotton fabric developed in Manchester in the 1930s. Its unique properties make it waterproof, windproof and have excellent breathability.
Cotton, nylon, wool, fur
Archive no. 2018.165
Note
From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:
EVEREST PARKA
Nigel Cabourn
2004
On 29 May 1953, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest (named Sagarmaˉthaˉ in Tibetan and Chomolungma in Nepalese). This interpretation of a photograph of Hillary’s expedition jacket exemplifies Cabourn’s commitment to creating historically inspired and functional menswear. The parka has a six-panel, snorkel-shaped
hood with four pleats at the peak, a wire support, and a sheepskin lining with fur trim to withstand temperatures below zero. In addition, it has elasticized cuffs and a hem for a secure fit, as well as down-feather padding. A cotton canvas weave tape secures the waist drawstring, and a neck tab provides additional wind protection. The hood has cotton drawstrings with a hand-tied hangman’s knot and a Union Knopf ‘pig’s nose’ wooden lock and disc stopper.
Cotton, Nylon, Wool, Fur
Archive no. 2018.165