Identity area
Reference code
Title
Date(s)
- late 1990s (Creation)
Level of description
Extent and medium
Context area
Name of creator
Administrative history
Carol Christian Poell was founded by Carol Christian Poell (b. 1966) and Sergio Simone in 1994 following Poell’s graduation from the postgraduate design course at Domus Academy in Milan. Poell set up C.C.P. Srl to serve as the production and distribution company for his label. He released a small capsule collection for Autumn Winter 1994 consisting of a pair of trousers, a jacket, a shirt and a T-shirt, followed by his first full collection the following season. In 1999 he started a womenswear collection. Poell’s use of leather throughout his career has been influenced by his family’s lengthy experience in the tannery and leather industry. This has resulted in his adventurous and experimental methods of cutting and assembling his clothes, as well as a rethinking of the basic construction language. Poell’s investigation into the transformation of dead animal skin into garments has informed his choice of venues to show his collections which have included a slaughterhouse, a morgue and Milan’s Naviglio Grande canal, where models’ apparently lifeless bodies floated downstream past the invited fashion guests and the public. Poell continued to explore this fascination in his Autumn Winter 2001 video presentation, ‘Public Freedom’, by locking models inside the cages of a Milan municipal dog pound.
Sources: Grailed.com; Terry Jones and Susie Rushton, eds, Fashion Now 2: i-D Selects 160 of Its Favourite Fashion Designers from Around the World (Cologne: Taschen, 2008); New Yorker; U-Wire.
Repository
Archival history
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
Country of Design: Milan, Italy
Country of Manufacture: Italy
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
Accruals
System of arrangement
Conditions of access and use area
Conditions governing access
Conditions governing reproduction
Language of material
Script of material
Language and script notes
Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Colour/Print: Green
Details: displaced seams
Label: Carol Christian Poell (care label has been removed from the side seam)
Finding aids
Allied materials area
Existence and location of originals
Existence and location of copies
Related units of description
Notes area
Note
From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:
LINEN SLUB T-SHIRT
Carol Christian Poell
1990s
Even the simplest garments, such as a T-shirt, may be reflective of a designer’s aesthetic. Poell’s work is often focused on material and structure, and his choice of a linen slub fabric for this T-shirt is a reminder of the long-standing use of linen for underwear before the twentieth century. Its
semi-opaque appearance undermines ideals of modesty and is revealing rather than functioning as a protective layer. The T-shirt has been cut in an unconventional style, with a centre back seam and displaced shoulder seams that run diagonally from the front of the neckline to the rear of the
armhole, reminiscent of the cutting of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century men’s tailoring. The armhole, centre back, and side seams are overclocked, and the sleeves, collar and hem are cover stitched.
Linen mix
Archive no. 2018.167