Item 2018.167 - Carol Christian Poell T-shirt

Identity area

Reference code

2018.167

Title

Carol Christian Poell T-shirt

Date(s)

  • late 1990s (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(1994-)

Administrative history

Carol Christian Poell was founded by Carol Christian Poell (b. 1966) and Sergio Simone in 1994 following Poell’s graduation from the postgraduate design course at Domus Academy in Milan. Poell set up C.C.P. Srl to serve as the production and distribution company for his label. He released a small capsule collection for Autumn Winter 1994 consisting of a pair of trousers, a jacket, a shirt and a T-shirt, followed by his first full collection the following season. In 1999 he started a womenswear collection. Poell’s use of leather throughout his career has been influenced by his family’s lengthy experience in the tannery and leather industry. This has resulted in his adventurous and experimental methods of cutting and assembling his clothes, as well as a rethinking of the basic construction language. Poell’s investigation into the transformation of dead animal skin into garments has informed his choice of venues to show his collections which have included a slaughterhouse, a morgue and Milan’s Naviglio Grande canal, where models’ apparently lifeless bodies floated downstream past the invited fashion guests and the public. Poell continued to explore this fascination in his Autumn Winter 2001 video presentation, ‘Public Freedom’, by locking models inside the cages of a Milan municipal dog pound.

Sources: Grailed.com; Terry Jones and Susie Rushton, eds, Fashion Now 2: i-D Selects 160 of Its Favourite Fashion Designers from Around the World (Cologne: Taschen, 2008); New Yorker; U-Wire.

Archival history

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Content and structure area

Scope and content

Sage-coloured crew neck, short-sleeved t-shirt made from a semi-transparent linen slub mix. It features a seam running down the centre back. The shoulder seams are diagonally positioned, running from the front neckline to the back of the armhole. The armhole, centre back, and side seams are finished with overlocking, while the sleeves, neckline, and hem are completed with a coverstitch. Additionally, the hem includes a thin white non-stretch tape inserted into the bottom edge for reinforcement.
Country of Design: Milan, Italy
Country of Manufacture: Italy

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      linen mix
      Colour/Print: Green
      Details: displaced seams
      Label: Carol Christian Poell (care label has been removed from the side seam)

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      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      LINEN SLUB T-SHIRT
      Carol Christian Poell
      1990s
      Even the simplest garments, such as a T-shirt, may be reflective of a designer’s aesthetic. Poell’s work is often focused on material and structure, and his choice of a linen slub fabric for this T-shirt is a reminder of the long-standing use of linen for underwear before the twentieth century. Its
      semi-opaque appearance undermines ideals of modesty and is revealing rather than functioning as a protective layer. The T-shirt has been cut in an unconventional style, with a centre back seam and displaced shoulder seams that run diagonally from the front of the neckline to the rear of the
      armhole, reminiscent of the cutting of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century men’s tailoring. The armhole, centre back, and side seams are overclocked, and the sleeves, collar and hem are cover stitched.
      Linen mix
      Archive no. 2018.167

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