Identity area
Reference code
2018.163
Title
Nigel Cabourn Admirality Jumper
Date(s)
- 2003 (Creation)
Level of description
Item
Extent and medium
1
Context area
Name of creator
(1989-)
Biographical history
Cricket Clothing Ltd 1971–88 Nigel Cabourn 1989–present
Nigel Cabourn (b. 1949) founded his first brand Cricket Clothing Ltd in 1971, during his final year of study at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design. Paul Smith became his agent in 1972, assisting him to get his designs into retail outlets across the UK. Nigel Cabourn collections were shown in Paris from 1973 to 1985. In 1980 the Nigel Cabourn name was licensed to the Japanese company Anglobal who continue to distribute the brand in Japan and elsewhere in the world. The company was financed from 1985 to 1988 by Peter Bertelsen’s Aguecheek firm, which also financed John Galliano, Richard James and Alistair Blair. In 2000, Ted Baker assumed commercial responsibility for the Nigel Cabourn menswear brand, including marketing, production and distribution. The label became known for its use of Cabourn’s personal archive collection of between 3,000 and 4,000 workwear and military garments. In 2002 they began to focus on special limited-edition collections, starting with their Everest collection ‘The Ascent of Nigel Cabourn’, released in 2003. Garments included the Antarctic Parka and the Cameraman Jacket. The company formed a three-year partnership with Debenhams in 2005 to create the Nigel Cabourn Utility collection. In 2014 the first Nigel Cabourn store, The Army Gym, opened at 28 Henrietta Street, London. By 2018, the company had expanded to four distinct lines: Nigel Cabourn Authentic, manufactured in the UK; Nigel Cabourn Mainline, manufactured in Japan; Lybro, a reimagined version of the British workwear brand founded in 1927; and Nigel Cabourn Army Gym. The label has collaborated with a variety of brands, including Gloverall, Eddie Bauer, Henri-Lloyd, Tretorn, Converse, Closed, Fred Perry, Karrimor,
Converse, Red Wing, Umbro and Filson.
Sources: heddels.com; redingote.fr; Retail Week; The Evening Chronicle; The Journal; WWD.
Nigel Cabourn (b. 1949) founded his first brand Cricket Clothing Ltd in 1971, during his final year of study at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design. Paul Smith became his agent in 1972, assisting him to get his designs into retail outlets across the UK. Nigel Cabourn collections were shown in Paris from 1973 to 1985. In 1980 the Nigel Cabourn name was licensed to the Japanese company Anglobal who continue to distribute the brand in Japan and elsewhere in the world. The company was financed from 1985 to 1988 by Peter Bertelsen’s Aguecheek firm, which also financed John Galliano, Richard James and Alistair Blair. In 2000, Ted Baker assumed commercial responsibility for the Nigel Cabourn menswear brand, including marketing, production and distribution. The label became known for its use of Cabourn’s personal archive collection of between 3,000 and 4,000 workwear and military garments. In 2002 they began to focus on special limited-edition collections, starting with their Everest collection ‘The Ascent of Nigel Cabourn’, released in 2003. Garments included the Antarctic Parka and the Cameraman Jacket. The company formed a three-year partnership with Debenhams in 2005 to create the Nigel Cabourn Utility collection. In 2014 the first Nigel Cabourn store, The Army Gym, opened at 28 Henrietta Street, London. By 2018, the company had expanded to four distinct lines: Nigel Cabourn Authentic, manufactured in the UK; Nigel Cabourn Mainline, manufactured in Japan; Lybro, a reimagined version of the British workwear brand founded in 1927; and Nigel Cabourn Army Gym. The label has collaborated with a variety of brands, including Gloverall, Eddie Bauer, Henri-Lloyd, Tretorn, Converse, Closed, Fred Perry, Karrimor,
Converse, Red Wing, Umbro and Filson.
Sources: heddels.com; redingote.fr; Retail Week; The Evening Chronicle; The Journal; WWD.
Repository
Archival history
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
Knit and purl grey/beige melange wool jumper with roll neck and red stripe across back. It is an oversized fit with deep ribbed cuffs, waistband and neck and is finished at the neck with a coverstitch. The back red stripe is 9cm wide and runs horizontally under the armhole across the back panel. The body of the sweater is made up of one piece with no shoulder seams and has diamond shaped drill patches sewn internally on the shoulder at the neck point to stretch and shape the shoulders. The care label is sewn into the exterior left side seam (meaning the jumper may be a sample). The jumper is named the 'Bourdillon' after Tom Bourdillon, a British mountaineer who took part in the 1953 Mount Everest expedition.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
Accruals
System of arrangement
Conditions of access and use area
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Conditions governing reproduction
Language of material
Script of material
Language and script notes
Physical characteristics and technical requirements
100% wool
Colour/Print: grey/beige
Details: knit and purl, polo neck
Label: Label at neck: Nigel Cabourn Limited Edition Issue No. 297 Made in England. Swing tag 1: Admirality Sweater. Style No. 0002 Swing tag 2: For guidance only pending sealing of DEF patterns. Admirality Standard Pattern. Jerseys 100% wool. Spec. No. DEF 1210 dated 13th Jan 1953 and Suplementary Admirality Requirements V2A/143/1/59 dated 29th May, 1953. N/VTA 160/311 of 29th May, 2003. Care label: Made in UK. 100% wool Internal label at hem: Size 3 over. 43" Colonial 100% wool. 8405-99-943 =1535 Name N Cabourn Ltd Year 2003. Remploy England.
Colour/Print: grey/beige
Details: knit and purl, polo neck
Label: Label at neck: Nigel Cabourn Limited Edition Issue No. 297 Made in England. Swing tag 1: Admirality Sweater. Style No. 0002 Swing tag 2: For guidance only pending sealing of DEF patterns. Admirality Standard Pattern. Jerseys 100% wool. Spec. No. DEF 1210 dated 13th Jan 1953 and Suplementary Admirality Requirements V2A/143/1/59 dated 29th May, 1953. N/VTA 160/311 of 29th May, 2003. Care label: Made in UK. 100% wool Internal label at hem: Size 3 over. 43" Colonial 100% wool. 8405-99-943 =1535 Name N Cabourn Ltd Year 2003. Remploy England.
Finding aids
Allied materials area
Existence and location of originals
Existence and location of copies
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Notes area
Alternative identifier(s)
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Subject access points
Place access points
Name access points
- Remploy Limited (Subject)