Identity area
Reference code
2019.141.1
Title
Carlo Brandelli Unstructured Cotton Jacket
Date(s)
- 2007 (Creation)
Level of description
Item
Extent and medium
1
Context area
Name of creator
(1965-)
Biographical history
Carlo Brandelli was born in London and launched his first project Squire in 1992. It was a concept space that brought together design, art and fashion, including menswear. In 2003 he became Creative and Design Director of Savile Row tailor Kilgour. He was responsible for the brand concept, design and campaigns. He was voted Menswear designer of the year in 2005 by the British Fashion Council.
In 2015 he was guest designer for Pitti Uomo in Florence and designed an installation with a menswear presentation. Examples of his Unstructured Tailoring work were included in the 'Suit' section of the exhibition Items: Is Fashion Modern? at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, 1 October 2017- 28 January 2018.
Repository
Archival history
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
White cotton twill single breasted jacket with one button (not visible when fastened). The jacket has a notched lapel, the left with a buttonhole, and two angled jetted pockets at the hips. It has an angled welted pocket at the left chest and a white cotton tape hanging loop in the back of the neck. The jacket is unlined and the centre back seam edges are frayed with blue. It has short vents in the cuffs but no fastenings.
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
Accruals
System of arrangement
Conditions of access and use area
Conditions governing access
Conditions governing reproduction
Language of material
Script of material
Language and script notes
Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Materials: cotton
Finding aids
Allied materials area
Existence and location of originals
Existence and location of copies
Related units of description
Notes area
Note
This jacket is an example of Carlo Brandelli's 'Unstructured Tailoring'. Linings and all of the traditional tailoring structures that create shape were removed from the design, except for a small number of styles which retained shoulder pads. The external shape of the jacket is created by the cut. Shown at Paris Fashion Week, Spring Summer 2008 for Kilgour.