Item 2019.141.2 - Kilgour by Carlo Brandelli Unstructured Jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2019.141.2

Title

Kilgour by Carlo Brandelli Unstructured Jacket

Date(s)

  • 2005 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

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1

Context area

Name of creator

Kilgour
(1880-)

Administrative history

Savile Row tailor Kilgour has its origins in two firms, T. & F. French and A.H. Kilgour. In 1923 they merged to become Kilgour & French with brothers Fred and Louis Stanbury joining in 1925. They were renowned for their elegance and smartness of cut and the house was renamed Kilgour, French & Stanbury in 1937. In 1970 the company incorporated Bernard Weatherall, a tailor known for sporting and equestrian wear. From 1977 to 1982 Tommy Nutter was with the house and in 1981 introduced a ready-to-wear range called Tommy Nutter for Kilgours.

In 2003 the company relaunched as Kilgour with menswear designer Carlo Brandelli as Creative and Design Director. He worked with the house until 2009 and then again between 2013-2017.

Name of creator

Brandelli, Carlo
(1965-)

Biographical history

Carlo Brandelli was born in London and launched his first project Squire in 1992. It was a concept space that brought together design, art and fashion, including menswear. In 2003 he became Creative and Design Director of Savile Row tailor Kilgour. He was responsible for the brand concept, design and campaigns. He was voted Menswear designer of the year in 2005 by the British Fashion Council.

In 2015 he was guest designer for Pitti Uomo in Florence and designed an installation with a menswear presentation. Examples of his Unstructured Tailoring work were included in the 'Suit' section of the exhibition Items: Is Fashion Modern? at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, 1 October 2017- 28 January 2018.

Repository

Westminster Menswear Archive

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Scope and content

Dark blue wool tailored jacket, single breasted with one button. The jacket has a notched lapel and deep break point. It has two angled jetted pockets with welts at the hips and a welted angled pocket on the left chest. The cuff vents fasten with four small dark blue buttons. It is lined in the sleeves and over the shoulders in light blue rayon. It has a light blue rayon hanging loop in the back of the neck and the inside seam edges are bound in light blue rayon tape. There are two vents in the back.

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      Materials: wool, rayon

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      Note

      Designed by Carlo Brandelli when he was creative director of Savile Row tailor Kilgour. This jacket is an example of his 'Unstructured Tailoring' aimed to make suits as light as possible. Linings and all of the traditional tailoring structures that create shape were removed from the design, except for a small number of styles which retained shoulder pads. The external shape of the jacket is created by the cut.

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