Item 2019.138 - Umbro England 2010 Away Football Shirt

Identity area

Reference code

2019.138

Title

Umbro England 2010 Away Football Shirt

Date(s)

  • 2010 (Creation)

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Item

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1

Context area

Name of creator

(1924-present)

Administrative history

Humphreys Brothers Clothing was founded as a sportswear company in 1920 by Harold Humphreys (1902–74) and Wallace Humphreys (1900–50) in a workshop in Wilmslow, Cheshire. On 23 May 2024, the company name was changed to “Humphreys Brothers Limited” and they began manufacturing sportswear using Umbro as their brand name, combining the UM from Humphreys and the BRO from Brothers. Initially focused on football shirts, Umbro expanded into rugby jerseys and socks by 1933. Umbro first gained national recognition in 1934, when club Manchester City won the FA Cup wearing Umbro Tangeru jerseys made of Peruvian Pima cotton.

As with many British apparel manufacturers, Umbro shifted production to military uniforms during the Second World War. Following the war, as football’s popularity grew globally, they expanded their business by providing kits for teams worldwide. Umbro began producing unofficial replica kits aimed at children in 1956 under the name SPORTSWEAR Xmas Pack, which included a shirt, shorts and socks in the team’s official colours. Seven of the sixteen competitors at the 1966 World Cup wore Umbro kits, including the winning England team, further stimulating the company’s replica shirt business. The relaxation of rules by the Football Association in 1977 regarding sponsorship saw the market in replica football kits rapidly expand, and it became increasingly essential to Umbro’s business in the following decades. In 1992, the Humphreys family sold the business to Stone Manufacturing, an underwear manufacturer based in South Carolina, and closed its factories in Macclesfield and Stockport the same year. Umbro was sold to venture capitalist firm Doughty Hanson & Co. for £90 million in 1999. The company signed a £60 million kit sponsorship and merchandising deal with football club Manchester United in 1996, the largest deal ever signed by a British sportswear company. Later that year, Umbro signed a £20 million kit sponsorship deal with Chelsea Football Club. In 2003, the Office of Fair Trading concluded an investigation into price fixing on replica football shirts, fining companies including JJB Sports, Manchester United and the Football Association £18.6 million. Umbro was fined £6.64 million. Umbro agreed to a
£285 million takeover bid from Nike in 2007; however, Nike sold the company to the American Iconix Brand Group in 2012. Notably, Umbro collaborated with menswear designer Kim Jones (b. 1973) on a series of collections between 2004 and 2007. It was the beginning of the company’s relationships with other fashion designers, including Aitor Throup, Philip Treacy, Peter Saville, R. Newbold, Palace, John Smedley, Patta, House of Holland, Off-White, Vetements, Supreme, Christopher Raeburn and JUUN.J.
Sources: The Times.

Name of creator

(1980-)

Biographical history

Aitor Throup grew up in Burnley, Lancashire. He studied at Manchester Metropolitan University and the Royal College of Art where he obtained an MA in Fashion Menswear. He established his design house A.T. Studio in 2007 and has worked as a design and creative consultant for companies such as Umbro, C.P. Company and G-Star Raw. In 2012 he launched his own brand and product line 'New Object Research.

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Scope and content

Red long-sleeved polyester football shirt or pullover top. It has a high round neck with a sloping neckline and is made up of panels which are seamed in a way designed to allow the shirt to move with the body. On the left chest is a shield-shaped badge in white with an embroidered blue design of three lions. Above the badge is a five-pointed star embroidered in red thread. The right chest has the Umbro double diamond logo in white above a large '10' also in white. Over the top of the back shoulders 'ROONEY' is applied in white and the centre back has a very large '10' applied in white.
Country of Design: England

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      Materials: polyester

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      Note

      Aitor Throup collaborated with Umbro on the design of the 2010 England away kit and his research process for the project involved looking at the company's heritage. He was particularly inspired by an early Umbro shirt in the collection of the National Football Museum which had 'Tailored by Umbro in England' on the label. He described his designs as applying the concept of tailoring in a performance context. The shirts were designed on an articulated mannequin without traditional seams so that they would move with the body.

      Note

      Umbro 100 exhibition label:

      ENGLAND 2010 AWAY SHIRT
      Umbro 2010
      Instead of being worn first by the England football team, the 2010 England away shirt was revealed on stage at a gig in Paris by Kasabian’s lead singer, Tom Meighan. Designed by Aitor Throup, it features a sloping neckline and seamed panels that allow the shirt to move with the body.
      Made in Indonesia
      Polyester, Cotton
      Archive no. 2019.138

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          Sources

          Andy Butler, 'Tailored by Umbro: Aitor Throup Interview', Designboom, 16 March 2010.

          Accession area