This dark blue cotton single-breasted jacket by Joe Casely-Hayford blends tailoring with sportswear and American Western influences. The jacket features half-moon curved welt pockets on the front, with four internal metal hook-and-eye fasteners. Two ascending darts extend from each curved welt pocket, and there is a single welt pocket on the left chest. The front closure is secured by two buttons. The jacket is 3/4 lined, with fully lined sleeves in striped fabric and blue-grey satin lining on the front panels. It has deep knitted ribbed cuffs, reminiscent of sweatshirt or bomber jacket designs. Inside, there are three welt pockets: two measuring 13cm on the front and a smaller 5cm pocket on the left. The back features a centre seam and two back vents. A woven "Joe Casely-Hayford" label is sewn into the right breast interior.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: Japan
Joe Casely-Hayford
Single-breasted, one-button tailored jacket made from black-printed silver-coloured Mylar. The outer is black, while the inner lining is silver. The jacket features a narrow collar and lapels, elasticated cuffs, and two narrow, welted horizontal slit pockets at the front hip level. There is visible wear around the collar and several tears in the Mylar. The Mylar, specially treated and processed in Italy by overprinting black on one side, was not intended for use in structured garments, resulting in tearing, particularly along the stitch lines. Some seams and hems remain unfinished, suggesting this piece is likely a fitting sample or toile made for a runway show.
Country of Design: United States
Calvin Klein
This artificial leather jacket employs a trompe l’oeil effect through the strategic use of cuts and seams, creating the illusion of a shorter jacket layered over a longer one. The trompe l’oeil upper piece is made from perforated material and finishes at the upper hip, while the actual jacket extends to the lower hip. The jacket features two jetted flap pockets and one slanted breast pocket. The sleeve cuffs have three horn buttons on a sham vent, with a trompe l’oeil shorter sleeve above, ending in line with the edge of the trompe l’oeil body. This shorter sleeve has three non-working stitched buttonholes.
Surface: artificial leather. Lining: 53% cupra, 47% polyester.
Country of Design: Japan
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Single-breasted tailored jacket made from lightweight black nylon. It features two angled lower flap pockets with jets at the waist and is fastened at the front by two black buttons. The jacket has a peak lapel, diverging from the traditional notched lapel for single-breasted styles. The interior includes a slanted jetted breast pocket on either side. Reflecting its lightweight construction, the jacket is unlined and partially finished with French seams. It has a single back vent and a deep turn-up hem.
Alexander McQueen
Single-breasted long jacket constructed from an ornate green and gold heavy brocade furnishing fabric, embellished with bright gold tassels along the sleeves and hem. The jacket fastens with four square gold plastic buttons featuring crest detailing, along with an additional popper closure. It features a mod-style mandarin collar, which can be worn either upright or rolled down. The construction is simple, with two side vents, and the jacket is unlined.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Irvine Sellars
The jacket fastens with two large square Velcro patches located on the lower sides and left shoulder. It features a bellows pocket on the lower front. The sleeves are attached with poppers, and each sleeve head includes an internal pocket. The cuffs are adjustable with Velcro tabs. Additionally, there are two large zipped openings along the inside lower edge of the garment and two zipped openings around the neck. A small internal label reads WiJ ZiJN GEK, which translates from Dutch as "We are crazy."
Country of Design: France
Country of Manufacture: Italy
Bernhard, Willhelm
The M70 Alpenflage jacket includes ten pockets in total: five bellow pockets on the front, three on the lower back, and one on the left sleeve. This design negated the need for soldiers to carry a separate rucksack, providing ample storage space within the jacket itself.
Country of Design: Switzerland
Swiss Armed Forces
Bomber jacket made from 100% canvas cotton, featuring hidden metal buttons and concealed flat pockets. The jacket has an oversized fit and includes a double lining at the back of the neck. The spiral patterns on the fabric were hand-painted using fabric pens and inks, and then folded to transfer the pigments. This process was repeated multiple times to enhance the complexity of the pattern.
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom
Craig Green
Long double-weave wool blanket cape in dark and light grey, featuring a hood. The outer surface is dark grey with a pattern of pale grey lines, while the underside mirrors the design with reversed colours. The cape fastens at the neck and is constructed from a long double-weave wool blanket. A hood is attached to one end by a zip, and within the hood is an adjustable face mask, which fastens with Velcro to an elastic strap threaded through the hood's lining.
Undercover
Denim poncho adorned with numerous cotton jacquard embroidered badges, manufactured by Gainsborough Textile Mill in Suffolk. The badges, based on linocuts created in collaboration with illustrator Tom Baxter, offer a modern interpretation of 1950s Scout badges. The designs are inspired by Kibbo Kift imagery and include graphics such as three hands saluting, a heraldic fawn, a green man, an animal paw, a skeleton hand giving the finger, and a "no war" patch. The poncho is secured by two paracords and features four carabiner clips with knotted cords, along with one small dog clip.
Country of Manufacture: England
Liam Hodges
