Item 2016.213 - Craig Green Hand Painted Canvas Jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2016.213

Title

Craig Green Hand Painted Canvas Jacket

Date(s)

  • Autumn Winter 2014 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(2013-)

Biographical history

Craig Green (b. 1986) founded the menswear label Craig Green in 2012, following his graduation from Central Saint Martins’s MA Fashion course, where he received the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award for his graduate collection. The brand showed its Spring Summer 2013 collection in June 2012 as part of Fashion East’s Installations at the inaugural London Collections: Men, followed by their first runway show in January 2013 as part of the Fashion East MAN show. In 2014 and 2015 Craig Green was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize. In 2014 Craig Green won the British Fashion Award for Emerging Menswear Designer and was awarded the British Designer of the Year Menswear at the British Fashion Awards in 2016, 2017 and 2018. Craig Green was awarded £150,000 as the winner of the annual British Fashion Council / GQ Designer Men’s Wear Fund in May 2016. The company has collaborated with several brands, including Grenson, Björn Borg, adidas, Champion and Valentino, and most notably with Italian brand Moncler, with whom Craig Green began working in 2016 on their Genius Building line.
Sources: lvmh.com; WWD.

Archival history

Immediate source of acquisition or transfer

Content and structure area

Scope and content

Bomber jacket made from 100% canvas cotton, featuring hidden metal buttons and concealed flat pockets. The jacket has an oversized fit and includes a double lining at the back of the neck. The spiral patterns on the fabric were hand-painted using fabric pens and inks, and then folded to transfer the pigments. This process was repeated multiple times to enhance the complexity of the pattern.
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Cotton Canvas
      Colour/Print: Blue
      Measurements:
      Chest 123cm
      Waist 121cm
      Inner arm 45cm
      Outer arm 61cm
      Button stand length 62cm
      Centre back length from nape 67cm
      Shoulder to shoulder width 48.5cm

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      HAND PAINTED CANVAS JACKET
      Craig Green
      2014

      The first examples of camouflage were devised and hand painted by artists including painter Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola, who led the French army's camouflage unit in the First World War. This modern-day jacket was hand painted, and hand printed, creating a complex and multi-layered pattern to confuse and dazzle the eye.

      Cotton
      Archive no. 2016.213

      Note

      Published in: Shaun Cole and Miles Lambert, Dandy Style: 250 Years of Men's Fashion (New Haven and London: Yale University Press and Manchester Art Gallery, 2021), p. 136

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      HAND-PAINTED JACKET
      Craig Green
      Autumn Winter 2014
      Camouflage’s earliest examples were hand-painted by artists such as Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola, who led the French army’s camouflage unit during the First World War. This hand-painted jacket is from Craig Green’s Autumn Winter 2014 collection, which featured layered looks composed of trousers, shirts and jackets all hand-painted in the same pattern, evoking a sense of camouflage. The print is a type of disruptive colouration, a technique that works by breaking up the outlines of a person or object with a strongly contrasting pattern; in this example, it renders the details and boundaries of the garment invisible. The spiral patterns were hand-painted with fabric paints and inks and then folded to transfer the pigments. This process was repeated several times to increase the pattern’s complexity.
      Cotton
      Archive no. 2016.213

      Alternative identifier(s)

      Alternative Identifier

      D.CG.1 - 2016

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