Item 2017.337.39 - Calvin Klein Mylar Blazer

Identity area

Reference code

2017.337.39

Title

Calvin Klein Mylar Blazer

Date(s)

  • Autumn Winter 2010 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(1968-)

Administrative history

1968–present
Calvin Klein Collection 1973–2017 Calvin Klein 205W39NYC 2017–19
Calvin Klein Inc. was co-founded by Cavin Klein (b. 1942) and Barry Schwartz (b. 1942) in 1968. Initially producing womenswear, the company introduced menswear for Autumn Winter 1978 through an initial five-year licensing deal with Maurice Bidermann. In 1986 Klein bought the licence back from Bidermann Industries USA, planning to relaunch the menswear with an in-house design team later that year. However, it was not until Autumn Winter 1992 that Calvin Klein re-entered the menswear market after signing a manufacturing and marketing deal with GFT USA Corp. John Varvatos (b. 1954) served as head of menswear between 1990 and 1993, followed by Stephen Fairchild (b. 1962) as design director for menswear until 1996.
In 2003 Calvin Klein Inc. was sold to Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. (PVH) for US$400 million, plus US$30 million in stock and up to US$300 million in royalties tied to revenues over the next fifteen years. In 2003 Italo Zucchelli (b. 1965) was named as the creative director for the men’s Calvin Klein Collection, where he remained until 2016. Belgian designer Raf Simons (b. 1968) was announced in August 2016 as the new Chief Creative Officer of the brand, responsible for all aspects of design, marketing and communications, across all product lines for men and women. Under Simons, the Calvin Klein Collection was renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC and his first runway collection for the brand in February 2017 presented menswear and womenswear together. In December 2018, eight months before the end of his contract, it was announced that Simons would be leaving the company with immediate effect, as the company had decided on a different direction for the brand. In March 2019 Calvin Klein announced it was to discontinue the Calvin Klein Collection division of the brand.

Calvin Klein was named Menswear Designer of the Year in 1999 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and in 2009 the award went to Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection. In 2017 both the awards for Womenswear and Menswear Designer of the Year went to Raf Simons for Calvin Klein.
Sources: British Vogue; Dow Jones Institutional News; Lisa Marsh, The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession (Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2003); New York Post; The New York Times; WWD.

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Scope and content

Single-breasted, one-button tailored jacket made from black-printed silver-coloured Mylar. The outer is black, while the inner lining is silver. The jacket features a narrow collar and lapels, elasticated cuffs, and two narrow, welted horizontal slit pockets at the front hip level. There is visible wear around the collar and several tears in the Mylar. The Mylar, specially treated and processed in Italy by overprinting black on one side, was not intended for use in structured garments, resulting in tearing, particularly along the stitch lines. Some seams and hems remain unfinished, suggesting this piece is likely a fitting sample or toile made for a runway show.
Country of Design: United States

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      Condition 29 July 2022: Fragile. Surface wear to the printed black outer around the inside collar and along the folds, horizontal 10cm tear from the right front armhole across the chest, small tears around the front right armhole, 4cm tear to the underside of the right armhole and into the side seam, 1cm tear where the button attaches to the front, three horizontal tears to the front left armhole into the chest of 1cm, 4cm and 4cm, tear to the underside left armhole at the seam, 5cm tear to the left shoulder seam, 9cm tear to the left back side seam from the arm seam, 4cm tear to the right back side seam from the arm seam. Condition photographs in object file.

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      MYLAR BLAZER
      Calvin Klein Collection
      2010

      Mylar is an industrial polyester resin material manufactured by DuPont. It is used for emergency blankets due to its ability to stabilise body temperature. The Mylar used for this jacket had to be treated and processed - it was sent to Italy where it was overprinted to attain the black outer finish.

      Mylar
      Archive no. 2017.337.39

      Note

      Possibly a fit sample or toile for A/W 2010 runway look 31 (2017.337.60).

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      MYLAR BLAZER
      Calvin Klein Collection
      Autumn Winter 2010
      Mylar is the brand name of a DuPont-manufactured industrial material. It is a BoPET film, a polyester film made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) that has been stretched. Due to its ability to regulate body temperature, it has many applications, including emergency blankets. Italo Zucchelli, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, incorporated Mylar into several tailored garments, including this jacket, for the Autumn Winter 2010 collection. The Mylar used was specially treated and processed to order in Italy by overprinting in black on one side. Not designed to be used for such structured garments, it has torn, especially along the stitch lines. Some of the seams and hems are unfinished, indicating that this garment is probably a fitting sample or toile for the runway show.
      Mylar
      Archive no. 2017.337.39

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