Identity area
Reference code
Title
Date(s)
- Autumn Winter 2010 (Creation)
Level of description
Extent and medium
Context area
Name of creator
Administrative history
1968–present
Calvin Klein Collection 1973–2017 Calvin Klein 205W39NYC 2017–19
Calvin Klein Inc. was co-founded by Cavin Klein (b. 1942) and Barry Schwartz (b. 1942) in 1968. Initially producing womenswear, the company introduced menswear for Autumn Winter 1978 through an initial five-year licensing deal with Maurice Bidermann. In 1986 Klein bought the licence back from Bidermann Industries USA, planning to relaunch the menswear with an in-house design team later that year. However, it was not until Autumn Winter 1992 that Calvin Klein re-entered the menswear market after signing a manufacturing and marketing deal with GFT USA Corp. John Varvatos (b. 1954) served as head of menswear between 1990 and 1993, followed by Stephen Fairchild (b. 1962) as design director for menswear until 1996.
In 2003 Calvin Klein Inc. was sold to Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. (PVH) for US$400 million, plus US$30 million in stock and up to US$300 million in royalties tied to revenues over the next fifteen years. In 2003 Italo Zucchelli (b. 1965) was named as the creative director for the men’s Calvin Klein Collection, where he remained until 2016. Belgian designer Raf Simons (b. 1968) was announced in August 2016 as the new Chief Creative Officer of the brand, responsible for all aspects of design, marketing and communications, across all product lines for men and women. Under Simons, the Calvin Klein Collection was renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC and his first runway collection for the brand in February 2017 presented menswear and womenswear together. In December 2018, eight months before the end of his contract, it was announced that Simons would be leaving the company with immediate effect, as the company had decided on a different direction for the brand. In March 2019 Calvin Klein announced it was to discontinue the Calvin Klein Collection division of the brand.
Calvin Klein was named Menswear Designer of the Year in 1999 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and in 2009 the award went to Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection. In 2017 both the awards for Womenswear and Menswear Designer of the Year went to Raf Simons for Calvin Klein.
Sources: British Vogue; Dow Jones Institutional News; Lisa Marsh, The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession (Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2003); New York Post; The New York Times; WWD.
Repository
Archival history
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
Country of Design: United States
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
Accruals
System of arrangement
Conditions of access and use area
Conditions governing access
Conditions governing reproduction
Language of material
Script of material
Language and script notes
Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Finding aids
Allied materials area
Existence and location of originals
Existence and location of copies
Related units of description
Notes area
Note
Invisible Men exhibition label:
MYLAR BLAZER
Calvin Klein Collection
2010
Mylar is an industrial polyester resin material manufactured by DuPont. It is used for emergency blankets due to its ability to stabilise body temperature. The Mylar used for this jacket had to be treated and processed - it was sent to Italy where it was overprinted to attain the black outer finish.
Mylar
Archive no. 2017.337.39
Note
Note
From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:
MYLAR BLAZER
Calvin Klein Collection
Autumn Winter 2010
Mylar is the brand name of a DuPont-manufactured industrial material. It is a BoPET film, a polyester film made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) that has been stretched. Due to its ability to regulate body temperature, it has many applications, including emergency blankets. Italo Zucchelli, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, incorporated Mylar into several tailored garments, including this jacket, for the Autumn Winter 2010 collection. The Mylar used was specially treated and processed to order in Italy by overprinting in black on one side. Not designed to be used for such structured garments, it has torn, especially along the stitch lines. Some of the seams and hems are unfinished, indicating that this garment is probably a fitting sample or toile for the runway show.
Mylar
Archive no. 2017.337.39