Item 2020.96 - A-Cold-Wall* Double Face Framework Jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2020.96

Title

A-Cold-Wall* Double Face Framework Jacket

Date(s)

  • Autumn Winter 2019 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(2015-present)

Administrative history

A-COLD-WALL* was founded in 2015 by Black British designer Samuel Ross (b. 1991). Born in Brixton, London, Ross studied graphic design at De Montfort University. After interning and working on projects with Virgil Abloh, he launched his label. In 2017 A-COLD-WALL* was named as a recipient of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN award and the label’s debut show was held at London Fashion Week Men’s in January 2017. In 2018 the label won the British Emerging Designer at the Fashion Awards and was a finalist for the LVMH Prize and the ANDAM Award. Between 2016 and 2017, A-COLD-WALL* reached £1.3 million in revenue. Tomorrow London Holdings acquired a minority stake in the label in January 2018 for an undisclosed sum. Tomorrow, who had been responsible for A-COLD-WALL*’s manufacturing, distribution and sales since July 2017, also became the brand’s global exclusive licensee. In 2022 A-COLD-WALL* opened two independent stores in Seoul, Korea.

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Content and structure area

Scope and content

Blue and dark red maroon double faced wool jacket with cut out sections. It is collarless and has a shallow V-neck with centre front hidden magnet fastening. There are three oblong-shaped cut outs on the front, smaller oblong-shaped cut outs on each shoulder and each cuff. The front has two vertical jetted inset pockets and A C W* in maroon woven into the left front opening. The reverse has a large flapped pocket with MODERNIST* in maroon woven into it across the lower back.

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      Label: A-COLD-WALL* / PRESENTED BY SAMUEL ROSS / A-COLD-WALL* is the curated product of British street culture. It is both a staunch symbol and mercurial component of the clashing of class and environment in the British landscape. Born of the stark subversive brilliance of the underclass, ACW* is expressed and refined by the cerebral sensibilities of the upper sections of society. This amalgamation is materialised through mediums of social commentary, immersive art and cutting-edge garments.
      Care label: L / Made in Italia / Main Fabric: 100% wool

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      Note

      The jacket was look 1 of A-Cold-Wall*'s Autumn Winter 2019 collection shown at London Fashion Week Mens, January 2019. The collection was titled 'BIRTH.ORGAN.SYNTH'.

      Note

      The jacket was look 1 of A-Cold-Wall*'s Autumn Winter 2019 collection shown at London Fashion Week Mens, January 2019. The collection was titled 'BIRTH.ORGAN.SYNTH'.

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          Sources

          Sarah Mower, 'A-Cold-Wall: Fall 2019 Menswear', Vogue, www.vogue.com, 7 January 2019.
          Christopher Morency, 'A-COLD-WALL* FW19 Show: Here's What Went Down', Highsnobiety, 8 January 2019.
          Samantha Conti, 'The Collections London: A-Cold-Wall', WWD, 8 January 2019.

          Accession area