Identity area
Reference code
2019.80
Title
John Richmond Black Jacket with Hand Painted Tattoo Designs on the Sleeves
Date(s)
- 1988-1991 (Creation)
Level of description
Item
Extent and medium
1
Context area
Name of creator
(1982-)
Administrative history
Manchester-born John Richmond (1960-) designed his first collection under his own name after he graduated from Kingston in 1982 while also freelancing for Joseph Tricot, Emporio Armani and Fiorucci. He launched Richmond-Cornejo with Maria Cornejo in 1984 and re-established his own label after their partnership ended in 1987, taking over their shop in Newburgh Street in London's Soho. He launched a lower priced line, Destroy, in February 1990 and in 1998 designed 'John by John Richmond' for department store Debenhams. He became known particularly for his leather jackets, club wear and for dressing rock and pop musicians.
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Scope and content
Black double breasted blazer with leather sleeves hand painted with tattoo motifs including hearts pierced with arrows, swallows and a skull and cross bones. The front is made of wool, the sleeves and back are leather. The back is printed with 'NOMAD' and the design of a spread eagle in white, and 'hell's angels' in black Gothic script. It is double breasted, with a wide notch lapel and the front fastens with six buttons and fish eye button holes. The front body is darted to the waist and meets a straight pocket flap. The leather sleeves are in two parts and is zipped at the sleeve hem which is also darted. The sleeve is lined in lightweight white wicking mesh. The main body of the lining is made in acetate. The leather jacket back is stitched in the style of a biker jacket and has a yoke across the cross back, with an additional yoke on the hem of the blazer.
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Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Black woven brand label stitched into the centre back lining in contrast silver thread: Size M / This garment contains approx 30% real leather
Measurements:
Chest 123cm
Waist 95cm (taken from second button)
Shoulder width 54cm
Arm length 61.5cm
Centre back length from nape 66.5cm
Measurements:
Chest 123cm
Waist 95cm (taken from second button)
Shoulder width 54cm
Arm length 61.5cm
Centre back length from nape 66.5cm
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Note
In the late 1980s John Richmond produced a collection using the Hells Angels death's head symbol without permission. The symbol and Hells Angels name (without apostrophe) are registered trademarks. It was reported that members of the Angels visited John Richmond shops in New York and London, and the designer was informed of the copyright breach by a lawyer, resulting in the collection being withdrawn.
Note
Published in: Shaun Cole and Miles Lambert, Dandy Style: 250 Years of Men's Fashion (New Haven and London: Yale University Press and Manchester Art Gallery, 2021), p. 122
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Sources
Peter Silverton, 'Hello's Angels', The Sunday Times, 6 June 1993.