Item 2019.112 - A-Cold-Wall* Academia Correction Workshop Coat

Identity area

Reference code

2019.112

Title

A-Cold-Wall* Academia Correction Workshop Coat

Date(s)

  • 2017 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

A-Cold-Wall*
(2015-present)

Administrative history

A-COLD-WALL* was founded in 2015 by Black British designer Samuel Ross (b. 1991). Born in Brixton, London, Ross studied graphic design at De Montfort University. After interning and working on projects with Virgil Abloh, he launched his label. In 2017 A-COLD-WALL* was named as a recipient of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN award and the label’s debut show was held at London Fashion Week Men’s in January 2017. In 2018 the label won the British Emerging Designer at the Fashion Awards and was a finalist for the LVMH Prize and the ANDAM Award. Between 2016 and 2017, A-COLD-WALL* reached £1.3 million in revenue. Tomorrow London Holdings acquired a minority stake in the label in January 2018 for an undisclosed sum. Tomorrow, who had been responsible for A-COLD-WALL*’s manufacturing, distribution and sales since July 2017, also became the brand’s global exclusive licensee. In 2022 A-COLD-WALL* opened two independent stores in Seoul, Korea.

Repository

Westminster Menswear Archive

Archival history

Immediate source of acquisition or transfer

Content and structure area

Scope and content

Dark blue cotton work coat featuring a turn-down collar and three large patch pockets on the front—two at the hips and one on the left chest. Each pocket has cut, angled corners at the bottom. A large white Tyvek label is sewn along the top edge on the right chest, printed in black and red with "A-COLD-WALL*".

Over the lower half of the coat has been hand sprayed with pale blue paint at the front and back and hand applied white paint splatters. The back yoke has been printed in large white lettering 'A-COLD-WALL*' and the lower back has been printed with a large blue triangle outline with 'ACADEMIA / CORRECTION / WORK SHOP' in vertical. On each sleeve cuff is printed 'A C W*'.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Label: A-COLD-WALL* / PRESENTED BY SAMUEL ROSS
      MADE IN UNITED KINGDOM
      Materials: 100% cotton

      Finding aids

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      ACADEMIA CORRECTION WORKSHOP COAT
      A-COLD-WALL*
      2017

      The dichotomy of garments being both new and worn is explored in this coat by Samuel Ross, the designer of label A-COLD-WALL*. It has been overprinted, sprayed and having paint randomly dripped onto it and also features a prominent white Tyvek label that may or may not be meant to be removed before being worn.

      Cotton
      Archive no. 2019.112

      Note

      The previous owner of this coat worked with A-Cold-Wall* in 2017 and was given the coat by Samuel Ross that summer.

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      ACADEMIA CORRECTION COAT
      A-COLD-WALL*
      2017
      In this coat, designer Samuel Ross of A-COLD-WALL* explores the contrast between new and worn-looking garments. It has been overprinted, sprayed and randomly dripped with paint, and a large white Tyvek label, which may or may not be intended to be removed prior to wearing, has been attached. It was displayed in May 2017 as part of Academia Correction Workshop, a pop-up installation by Samuel Ross based on a classroom setting and comprising branded schoolbooks, pencils, rulers and workshop coats. The setting drew parallels between an individual’s first encounter with conformity and diversity, and consequently the loss of individuality. The uniformity of the presented garments, including this workshop coat, was deliberately subverted by spraying and splattering them with paint, thereby rendering them unique and individual.
      Cotton
      Archive no. 2019.112

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