Blue silk cutaway coat worn for formal or court dress. It is heavily hand embroidered and has been extensively altered. The silk is satin with stripe created by raised weft threads which has worn away extensively in places. The coat has a high stand collar which has been altered, curved cutaway fronts, narrow slanted shoulders and tight curved sleeves.

The front right panel has eight large flat buttons - there are no buttonholes on the left side. There are two pockets, below the hips, with scalloped flaps and three buttons below. The sleeves have been altered or remade with panels created from patches of silk. The sleeves have turn back cuffs decorated with three large flat buttons and embroidery, the cuffs have been altered by being narrowed and the embroidery motifs have been cut out and appliqued on.

The back of the coat has narrow skirts with two vertical pleats on each side of the two tails (possibly unpicked) and a long centre back vent. The embroidery is of a design of summer grasses and flower heads in green, cream, pale pink and yellow silk threads worked in satin stitch. Bordering the main design is an embroidered lace net pattern in white silk threads. The flat buttons probably have a wooden core and have been covered in the main blue silk and embroidered with a small floral motif. A linen underlayer can be seen where the blue silk has worn through and there are linen pocket bags. Hand-sewn and hand-woven. It has been completely re-lined in a modern white cotton or polycotton fabric.

Dark blue fine wool facecloth (woven cloth with felted nap) tailcoat. It is double-breasted and fastens with four pairs of triple-gilt gold coloured metal buttons, engraved with a design of flowers and leaves. The coat has wide lapels with narrow V-notches edged in black cord and two extra decorative buttonholes on each lapel. The collar is very high at the back and is reinforced with rows of stab stitches to the underside.

The tails at the rear have two inverted pleats from the centre waistband with two of the same gilt buttons sewn to the top of the pleats and two at the bottom hem. There is a pocket concealed within the rear left tail. The cuffs are curved, trimmed with black cord and three smaller gilt buttons.

The main body of the coat is unlined except for the underarms which are padded and quilted with black cotton. The sleeves are lined in tan linen or cotton. It is entirely hand stitched.

Brown silk double breasted waistcoat with a roll collar. The silk has been woven to create a large check pattern with satin stripes, the squares of the checks are grosgrain with small blue dots. The fronts have been cut on the bias so that the checks are diagonal. The silk is in poor condition and has worn through in areas of rubbing leaving the cotton or linen warp threads.

It fastens at the front with four self-covered buttons (show eight) and with one metal button on the inside. There are two welted pockets lined in cotton twill. The back and under collar is made of tan cotton twill. There are two tabs for waist adjustment folded in half in a horizontal V shape and with three pairs of small metal eyelets. They lace with a length of cotton tape.

It is lined in plain white cotton with narrow dark brown leather strips at the hem of the fore parts and two small panels of grey silk under the arms. It has been altered to make it larger with panels inserted under the arms and the waist tabs moved. It has extensive staining under the arms, across the lower back and the front inside chest. The stains appear to be from sweat. All hand sewn.

This jacket from Carol Christian Poell features his frequently used style of internal construction. It is unlined, with the seams finished with a thick contrast thread overlocking in yellow. The front body is structured with a fully loost canvas which is only secured to the lapel and one run of stitching securing the edge to the lower pocket bag. The front facing is secured at the top to the top pocket bag, and from the base of there to the canvas. The back shoulder is reinforced with teo layers of curved canvas seamed into the armhole and the front facing edge. The jacket sleeves are fully lined in a grey striped lining. the inner jacket has two pockets, on the left side securing with a tab and button, along with a Carol Christian Poell label. The exterior of the jacket fastens with a single button, and has one body pocket on each side, with a single welt and a flap. The back of the jacket has a single vent, and the sleeve cuff has a single functioning button.

He was inspired by the stitching on rubble bags for this collection and designed a machine to sew the oversized overlocking.

Country of Design: Italy
Country of Manufacture: Italy