Identity area
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Title
Date(s)
- Spring 2006 (Creation)
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Context area
Name of creator
Administrative history
Carol Christian Poell was founded by Carol Christian Poell (b. 1966) and Sergio Simone in 1994 following Poell’s graduation from the postgraduate design course at Domus Academy in Milan. Poell set up C.C.P. Srl to serve as the production and distribution company for his label. He released a small capsule collection for Autumn Winter 1994 consisting of a pair of trousers, a jacket, a shirt and a T-shirt, followed by his first full collection the following season. In 1999 he started a womenswear collection. Poell’s use of leather throughout his career has been influenced by his family’s lengthy experience in the tannery and leather industry. This has resulted in his adventurous and experimental methods of cutting and assembling his clothes, as well as a rethinking of the basic construction language. Poell’s investigation into the transformation of dead animal skin into garments has informed his choice of venues to show his collections which have included a slaughterhouse, a morgue and Milan’s Naviglio Grande canal, where models’ apparently lifeless bodies floated downstream past the invited fashion guests and the public. Poell continued to explore this fascination in his Autumn Winter 2001 video presentation, ‘Public Freedom’, by locking models inside the cages of a Milan municipal dog pound.
Sources: Grailed.com; Terry Jones and Susie Rushton, eds, Fashion Now 2: i-D Selects 160 of Its Favourite Fashion Designers from Around the World (Cologne: Taschen, 2008); New Yorker; U-Wire.
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Content and structure area
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This jacket from Carol Christian Poell features his frequently used style of internal construction. It is unlined, with the seams finished with a thick contrast thread overlocking in yellow. The front body is structured with a fully loost canvas which is only secured to the lapel and one run of stitching securing the edge to the lower pocket bag. The front facing is secured at the top to the top pocket bag, and from the base of there to the canvas. The back shoulder is reinforced with teo layers of curved canvas seamed into the armhole and the front facing edge. The jacket sleeves are fully lined in a grey striped lining. the inner jacket has two pockets, on the left side securing with a tab and button, along with a Carol Christian Poell label. The exterior of the jacket fastens with a single button, and has one body pocket on each side, with a single welt and a flap. The back of the jacket has a single vent, and the sleeve cuff has a single functioning button.
He was inspired by the stitching on rubble bags for this collection and designed a machine to sew the oversized overlocking.
Country of Design: Italy
Country of Manufacture: Italy
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Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Colour/Print: Dark Blue
Label: Carol Christial Poell
Sprint 06
Male
order #4158
Art. GM/2098 RIGHT/12
Material 100% Cotton
Lining 100% cotton
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Notes area
Note
Invisible Men exhibition label:
COVERSTITCH JACKET
Carol Christian Poell
2006
Externally this tailored jacket appears ordinary, even mundane. However, when turned inside out the complexity of the garment’s unlined construction is revealed. Poell, who is known for his exceptional experimentation with construction and manufacturing techniques was inspired by builder’s rubble bags even creating a machine that could replicate the oversized yellow overlocking stitch.
Cotton
Archive no. 2018.153