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2019.63.8 · Item · undated [1995-2005]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Dark green tailored jacket with elasticated waist. The elastic is set 10 cm in from the centre front edge, and runs above the pocket around the back of the jacket. The elastic is secured on each end with a box-x stitch. The jacket chest is very loosely structured with a small canvas.

The front body pocket is a large curved edge patch pocket with a top stitched flap. The chest welt pocket has a twin needle stitch on either side. The centre front closes with three buttons, with a button hole on the left notch lapel. The sleeve has two buttons and a small vent opening. The inside of the jacket is half lined, with bound edge seams and a pocket on each side. The waist elastic is pulled through a cut hole in the channel at the side seam and tied in a knot.

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
2019.63.9 · Item · nd [1990-1999]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Grey jacket with large scale check pattern in gradations of grey and black. The jacket is large and boxy, with wide shoulders. It is unstructured in the body, with only a small shoulder pad at the very end of the shoulder seam. The centre front is double breasted with a low break point, fastening with one button on each side. There is a double jet pocket on each side level with the buttons. The back of the jacket has a small vent on each side seam. The sleeve has four buttons on the cuff. The inside lining has a pocket on the inside left. Made in Japan Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme
2019.64.1 · Item · undated 1923-1939
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Black coated waterproof cycling cape with brush painted sealed seams. The cape is shaped at the shoulders, with the front body larger than the back so the seam sits underneath when laid flat. The centre front closes with two silver Newey Brothers press studs, and secures with a strap and buckle. The collar is lined with velvet. The front has a cotton tie on each side, attached to a small circle, and sewn to the front in a circle of stitching. There is a third tie stitched to the centre back which ties between the legs to the front to secure the cape. The hem is curved and finished with a double turn and top stitch. Made in Scotland Vinco 27
2019.64.2 · Item · undated 1923-1939
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Black coated waterproof cycling trousers. The centre front ties closed with a length of cotton tape, and the fly closes with a single button through to the outside in the centre. There is a second layer of fabric stitched to strengthen the crotch area which extends to the knee on centre front. Made in Scotland. Vinco 27
2019.65 · Item · 1993-1996
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Deconstructed tailored jacket, with edges folded under and top stitched to a jersey base. The tailored jacket pieces are smaller than the jersey base and create an illusion of disjointed sections of a jacket. The centre front fastens with three buttons, with a notch lapel and a dark contrast button hole on the left side.

The left chest has a patch pocket with rounded edge and dark top stitching. There is a double jet pocket on each side. The sleeve has half the top and bottom sleeve, stitched on the top side, with the full underarm in jersey. The cuff has three functioning buttons. The back of the jacket has a small vent in the tailoring part of the jacket, with the arm hole and side seams following the usual shape of a jacket. The jersey seams are cover stitched, with a half lining also in jersey.
Made in Italy.

Jean Paul Gaultier Homme
Bukta Cricket Trousers
2019.66 · Item · undated [1970-1979]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Cream cricket trousers with single pleats at the front. They have a narrow waistband, adjustable with an elasticated section in a channel at the back which has tabs on each side that button for waist adjustment. The centre back seam has extra seam allowance, and the elastic is in two parts, seamed in with the centre back seam, allowing for further adjustments.

The centre front fastens with a tab and two hook and bars. The fly front closes with a fly, and has a top stitch with an elongated curve shape. There is a single double jet pocket on the back right, closed with a button. The front left waistband has a tab with 'Bukta' in black lettering. The inside waistband is branded with woven cotton tape. The centre back seam and pocket edges are bound, and all other seams are overlocked. Designed and Made in England.

Bukta
2019.67.1 · Item · 1922
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Cream boating jacket with blue and red stripes. The stripes are in sets of three, one red either side of a wide blue. The stripes are spaced across the fabric, around 15 cm apart.

The jacket has a pocket on each side, created with facings. The top facing becomes the pocket bag on the inside, and is top stitched to the main body creating the visual of a patch pocket, with the patch stitched on the inside of the jacket. There is a patch pocket on the front left chest with the Sidney Sussex College coat of arms. The centre front and the sleeve have two buttons each, engraved on the back with C&J Weldon London.

The jacket is unlined, the back seam finished with extra seam allowance which folds back on itself and is hand stitched and pressed, resembling a lapped seam. The sleeve holes are bound and the sleeve seams are raw.

Bodger & Co. Ltd
2019.67.2 · Item · 1922
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Cream cap with purple and pink striped tape edge. The side of the cap extends down to cover the ear, with a bound edge hole to the ear on the flap. The ends of the flap have a length of cotton tape which tie under the chin to secure the cap. The front panel has an embroidered Sidney house pheon azure (broad arrow) in purple thread. Made in UK Bodger & Co. Ltd
2019.67.3 · Item · 1922-1923
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Sidney Sussex house coat of arms, embroidered on black wool base. The top of the badge has a textured crown created with Dabka embroidery. This process of embroidery uses tightly coiled miniature springs, cut to size and passed over a needle and thread to create three dimensional embroidery designs. The coat of arms below has the Radcliffe and Sidney symbols within a red diamond. Made in UK Bodger & Co. Ltd
2019.68 · Item · 1967-1968
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
White cotton twill shirt featuring a high stand collar and a centre back zip closure. The shirt pulls over the head, fastening with a zip running from the collar to the shoulder yoke. The back shoulder yoke includes a small pleat on each side. Sleeves are constructed with felled seams and finish with double French cuffs designed for cufflinks. A concealed zip is inserted into the left side seam, extending from the chest to the hem. The shirt hem is upturned and topstitched, with a plain front free from additional seam stitching.
Country of Design: England.
Mr Fish