Item 2019.68 - Mr Fish White Zip-up Cotton Shirt

Identity area

Reference code

2019.68

Title

Mr Fish White Zip-up Cotton Shirt

Date(s)

  • 1967-1968 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(1966-1974, revived 2016–)

Administrative history

Mr Fish was a menswear shop founded in 1966 by Michael Fish (b. 1940) and his business partner Barry Sainsbury (1929–99), the grandson of John Sainsbury, the supermarket chain’s founder. Michael Fish trained as a shirtmaker and spent nine years at New & Lingwood and then Turnbull & Asser designing shirts for a variety of clients, including actor Sean Connery’s dress shirts for his first James Bond film, Dr. No (1962). Located at 17 Clifford Street, off Savile Row in London’s Mayfair, the shop specialized in flamboyant menswear, particularly bespoke shirts and ties. In 1966, a revival of extremely wide men’s ties reminiscent of those worn in the 1930s became known as kipper ties, which Mr Fish claimed to have coined as a pun on his surname.

Mr Fish became known for their male celebrity clients, including Noël Coward, Lord Snowdon, Sammy Davis Jr, James Fox, Mick Jagger, Lord Lichfield and Duke Ellington. In 1969, Mick Jagger wore a long frilled white Mr Fish tunic shirt for the Rolling Stones’s free concert at Hyde Park, while David Bowie wore a ‘man-dress’ designed by Mr Fish on the cover of his 1971 album The Man Who Sold the World. Mr Fish also designed Muhammad Ali’s boxing robe for his 1974 ‘Rumble in the Jungle’ bout with George Foreman. While the business flourished, with its mixture of celebrity clientele and young aristocracy, the withdrawal of Barry Sainsbury’s financial backing in 1969 led Michael Fish to find new investment from Captain Fred Barker, who then shut the Clifford Street shop. Mr Fish briefly reopened after investment from rock managers Robert Stigwood and David Shaw in new premises in Mount Street in 1974, but shut later that year after a fire. The brand was revived in 2016 by investor David Mason, producing a range of shirts inspired by the Mr Fish originals.
Sources: Geoffrey Aquilina Ross, The Day of the Peacock: Style for Men 1963–1973 (London: V&A Publishing, 2011); The Observer.

Archival history

Immediate source of acquisition or transfer

Content and structure area

Scope and content

White cotton twill shirt featuring a high stand collar and a centre back zip closure. The shirt pulls over the head, fastening with a zip running from the collar to the shoulder yoke. The back shoulder yoke includes a small pleat on each side. Sleeves are constructed with felled seams and finish with double French cuffs designed for cufflinks. A concealed zip is inserted into the left side seam, extending from the chest to the hem. The shirt hem is upturned and topstitched, with a plain front free from additional seam stitching.
Country of Design: England.

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Label machine stitched onto the inside collar on the front right hand side of the collar: Peculiar To Mr Fish, 17 Clifford Street, London W.1.
      Laundry mark hand embroidered in red thread: 31B
      Measurements: 810mm back turned down collar to hem x 550mm flat chest x 2mm deep

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      WHITE COTTON SHIRT
      Mr Fish
      1966-1974

      One of the key designers of the Peacock Revolution in 1960s British menswear, Michael Fish started his career at traditional men’s shirtmakers Turnbull & Asser of Jermyn Street. This shirt demonstrates his skill as it combines the traditional formal shirt features of double cuffs with references to contemporary sportswear through the zipped neck opening.

      Cotton
      Archive no. 2019.68

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      ZIP-UP COTTON SHIRT
      Mr Fish
      1967–8
      Michael Fish began his career as a traditional shirtmaker in London’s Mayfair, first at New & Lingwood and later at Turnbull & Asser on Jermyn Street. He established his own shop just off Savile Row in 1966 and was a driving force behind the late 1960s Peacock Revolution in British
      menswear. He introduced several new shirt styles that fused Jermyn Street refinement with Carnaby Street panache. This shirt demonstrates his ability to combine traditional formal shirt details like double cuffs with contemporary sportswear references like the zipped neck opening. Additionally, it has a side zip at the bottom of the shirt to ensure a snug fit. This shirt became a staple of his business and was offered in a variety of materials and finishes, including with embroidered embellishments.
      Cotton
      Archive no. 2019.68

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