Item 2019.91 - Craig Green Patchwork Organza Parka

Identity area

Reference code

2019.91

Title

Craig Green Patchwork Organza Parka

Date(s)

  • Autumn Winter 2018 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(2013-)

Biographical history

Craig Green (b. 1986) founded the menswear label Craig Green in 2012, following his graduation from Central Saint Martins’s MA Fashion course, where he received the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award for his graduate collection. The brand showed its Spring Summer 2013 collection in June 2012 as part of Fashion East’s Installations at the inaugural London Collections: Men, followed by their first runway show in January 2013 as part of the Fashion East MAN show. In 2014 and 2015 Craig Green was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize. In 2014 Craig Green won the British Fashion Award for Emerging Menswear Designer and was awarded the British Designer of the Year Menswear at the British Fashion Awards in 2016, 2017 and 2018. Craig Green was awarded £150,000 as the winner of the annual British Fashion Council / GQ Designer Men’s Wear Fund in May 2016. The company has collaborated with several brands, including Grenson, Björn Borg, adidas, Champion and Valentino, and most notably with Italian brand Moncler, with whom Craig Green began working in 2016 on their Genius Building line.
Sources: lvmh.com; WWD.

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Scope and content

Long lightweight hooded coat with fishtail back made of layers of patchworked organza in grey, green, blue, khaki, brown and blue. The patchwork panels have been overstitched with quilting in vertical lines. It has a wide stripe of bright blue down the centre front and centre back which are sewn down with ten vertical channels. Through the channels are threaded cream cotton cords with black metal bound ends which extend beyond the ends of the panels, creating a fringe effect. The front has two of the same stripes angled away from the centre front waist, also threaded with cotton cords. The hood has five short tabs of bright blue around the outside which are threaded with two long cream cotton cords that hang down on each side at the front. The hood has a cream cotton drawcord around the edge. There is a stripe of bright blue across the top of the shoulder and down the outside edge of each sleeve.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: India

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Materials: 100% nylon upper. 100% cotton base. Label details: Cardboard swing tag:
      CGAW18WOCO02
      COTTON/ORGANZA
      TENT PARKA
      S
      www.craig-green.com
      Fabric label at neck:
      CRAIG GREEN
      www.craig-green.com
      S (size small)
      Care label at seam:
      100% Nylon Upper
      100% Cotton Ground
      Dry Clean Only
      Made in India

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      DOUBLE-LAYER PATCHWORK PARKA
      Craig Green
      2018

      Craig Green has consistently focussed on exploring the concepts of ceremony, utility and uniform through men’s dress. This piece is inspired by the ‘gig line’ – a military term denoting an imaginary line in the centre of your body to which clothing should align. Made in India, this monumental patchwork parka is painstakingly constructed with multi-coloured contrast-stitched panels and multiple cord drawstrings.

      Nylon, Cotton
      Archive no. 2019.91

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      PATCHWORK ORGANZA PARKA
      Craig Green
      Autumn Winter 2018
      Craig Green has consistently focused on concepts of ceremony, utility and uniformity. This parka is made of layered organza patches, over-quilted in vertical lines of stitching. Its multiple sections and panelling are cut and constructed with military precision. It was inspired by the military term ‘gig line’, which refers to an imaginary line on the front of the body along which all uniform elements should align. Green also referred to these garments as ‘medieval Celtic flags’ and the diagonal panels intersecting on the front form a chevron, a protective symbol in heraldic symbolism. The use of chevrons to denote ranks on military uniforms derives from heraldry; a lance corporal in the British Army wears one chevron.
      Nylon, Cotton
      Archive no. 2019.91

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