Identity area
Reference code
Title
Date(s)
- Autumn Winter 2002-2003 (Creation)
Level of description
Extent and medium
Context area
Name of creator
Administrative history
Carol Christian Poell was founded by Carol Christian Poell (b. 1966) and Sergio Simone in 1994 following Poell’s graduation from the postgraduate design course at Domus Academy in Milan. Poell set up C.C.P. Srl to serve as the production and distribution company for his label. He released a small capsule collection for Autumn Winter 1994 consisting of a pair of trousers, a jacket, a shirt and a T-shirt, followed by his first full collection the following season. In 1999 he started a womenswear collection. Poell’s use of leather throughout his career has been influenced by his family’s lengthy experience in the tannery and leather industry. This has resulted in his adventurous and experimental methods of cutting and assembling his clothes, as well as a rethinking of the basic construction language. Poell’s investigation into the transformation of dead animal skin into garments has informed his choice of venues to show his collections which have included a slaughterhouse, a morgue and Milan’s Naviglio Grande canal, where models’ apparently lifeless bodies floated downstream past the invited fashion guests and the public. Poell continued to explore this fascination in his Autumn Winter 2001 video presentation, ‘Public Freedom’, by locking models inside the cages of a Milan municipal dog pound.
Sources: Grailed.com; Terry Jones and Susie Rushton, eds, Fashion Now 2: i-D Selects 160 of Its Favourite Fashion Designers from Around the World (Cologne: Taschen, 2008); New Yorker; U-Wire.
Repository
Archival history
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
Country of Design: Italy
Country of Manufacture: Italy.
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
Accruals
System of arrangement
Conditions of access and use area
Conditions governing access
Conditions governing reproduction
Language of material
Script of material
Language and script notes
Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Finding aids
Allied materials area
Existence and location of originals
Existence and location of copies
Related units of description
Notes area
Note
Invisible Men exhibition label:
FLOCKED JACKET
Carol Christian Poell
2002
This jacket from Poell’s Autumn Winter 2002 Attraction collection looks old and threadbare. However, it has been given a well-worn appearance using a flocking process. This was done after the jacket was constructed, so that the flocking effect appears only on the exposed parts of the jacket, leaving some areas bald.
Cotton, polyester
Archive no. 2019.52
Note
From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:
FLOCKED JACKET
Carol Christian Poell
Autumn Winter 2002
This jacket from Poell’s Autumn Winter 2002 ‘Attraction’ collection appears heavily worn in places. However, a flocking technique was employed to give it this weathered appearance. This was done after the jacket was constructed, so that the flocking effect appears only on the exposed areas of the jacket, leaving some areas threadbare. By adhering tiny fibre particles to the surface of a material, flocking imitates a tufted fabric. The flock is given a negative charge using a high-voltage electric field while the fabric is grounded; the flock particles then adhere vertically
to the previously applied glue. The jacket has two front jetted flap pockets, a breast pocket, a centre back vent and single button cuffed sleeves. The lining has been finished with pick stitching.
Nylon, Cotton, Polyester
Archive no. 2019.52