Item 2018.129 - Melanddi Union Jack Flag Jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2018.129

Title

Melanddi Union Jack Flag Jacket

Date(s)

  • 1981 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(1978–1986)

Administrative history

Melanddi was opened in 1978 by Andy Pearl and his cousin Mel Castle and was originally located at 8 Carnaby Street, London. They combined their first names ‘with a little change to give it an Italian feel’. It specialized in mod revival clothing and footwear, such as two-tone tonic suits, Stay-Pressed trousers, striped blazers, Union Jack flag jackets, and button-down shirts. Numerous musicians frequented the store, including Madness, Gary Numan, The Specials, Selector, Secret Affair and The Merton Parkas. Additionally, it ran a catalogue-based mail-order business for customers across the UK. Melanddi had five locations at its peak, including 10 and 43 Carnaby Street, Great Marlborough Street, South Street Romford, Essex, and Martineau Place in Birmingham.
Sources: melanddi.co.uk.

Archival history

Immediate source of acquisition or transfer

Content and structure area

Scope and content

Three-button tailored jacket featuring a Union Jack print in red, white, and blue cotton. It fastens with three black plastic buttons and has small lapels. The front includes two jetted pockets without flaps and a breast welt pocket on the left side. The front panels are aligned to create a central Union Jack pattern, while the back is constructed from two panels where the print does not match up, indicating budget-conscious manufacturing (original retail price: £29.99).

The jacket has uneven black topstitching, further suggesting a lower manufacturing quality. The two-piece sleeves lack vents but include a single black button on each cuff. It is lined in black viscose and features one internal pocket on the right side.
Country of Design: England.

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Cotton
      Colour/Print: Red, white, blue, Union Jack
      Details: black buttons, flag print
      Label: Melanddi Carnaby Street

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      UNION JACK FLAG JACKET
      Melanddi
      1981

      The iconic and graphic nature of the Union Jack has meant that it has been appropriated by British youth subcultures such as the Mods, as well as musicians including Blur, Oasis and David Bowie. This three-button Union Jack jacket is from the Mod revival store Melanddi that opened on Carnaby Street in 1978.

      Cotton
      Archive no. 2018.129

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      UNION JACK FLAG JACKET
      Melanddi
      1981
      Members of the British pop band The Who embodied the Union Jack’s iconic status as a symbol of Swinging London in the 1960s by wearing jackets made from the flag. The flag was subsequently appropriated by several British youth subcultures, including mods, skinheads and punks,
      due to its iconic and graphic nature. By the 1980s, Union Jack clothing could still be purchased on London’s Carnaby Street, which was strongly associated with 1960s fashion. This Union Jack jacket is from the Carnaby Street boutique Melanddi, which opened in 1978. It retailed for £29.99
      and is made of cotton, featuring a red, white and blue flag print. The front panels are perfectly aligned to form a Union Jack in the centre, whereas the back panels are slightly misaligned.
      Cotton
      Archive no. 2018.129

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