Identity area
Reference code
Title
Date(s)
- 1967-1975 (Creation)
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Context area
Name of creator
Administrative history
Tailor Austin Leonard Reed (1873–1954) opened his first shop at 167 Fenchurch Street, London on 7 July 1900, trading as Reed & Sons, and financed by his father William Bilkey Reed. The business moved to 13 Fenchurch Street in 1906 with the company trading under the Austin Reed name from then onwards. In February 1911 Austin Reed opened a flagship store at 113 Regent Street. Predominantly a shirt house and men’s outfitter, also selling hosiery, hats and raincoats, they expanded in 1920 to include off-the-peg suits and formalwear. In 1929 Austin Reed opened a shop on the Cunard transatlantic liner RMS Aquitania; this was followed by shops on the RMS Queen Mary (1934) and RMS Queen Elizabeth (1946). During the Second World War, the company manufactured uniforms for the armed forces and produced a siren suit for the prime minister, Winston Churchill.
In 1965, in a significant development, the company opened The Cue Shop, or Cue at Austin Reed, within its Regent Street flagship store in order to appeal to a younger male demographic seeking a more trend-driven wardrobe. Helmut Newton was employed to photograph four advertising campaigns in 1965, and guest designers were commissioned to create capsule menswear collections for the shop, including John Weitz, and later Tommy Nutter, Bill Gibb and, in 1984, Paul Smith (see p. 305). In 1966 Barry Reed, the grandson of Austin Reed, was appointed managing director, having overseen the successful launch of The Cue Shop. The success of Cue led to other traditional menswear shops creating their own in-house boutiques, including Simpson with Trend, Way In at Harrods, Aquascutum’s Club 92, the Army and Navy stores with On Target, and One Up at Moss Bros. After twenty years, Austin Reed shut The Cue Shop in 1985. In 2011 the company moved from their original Regent Street store to the former Aquascutum flagship store on the opposite side. In 2015 Austin Reed closed thirty-one of its stores, and in April 2016, the company entered administration. The following month, the Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group acquired the name. In November 2020, the Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group went into administration and Austin Reed closed.
Sources: Berry Ritchie, A Touch of Class: The Story of Austin Reed (London: James & James, 1990); Financial Times; The Guardian; The Times.
Repository
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Content and structure area
Scope and content
Single breasted black velvet Austin Reed for Cue blazer fastening with two large grey mother-of-pearl buttons. Single large grey mother-of-pearl button on each cuff. Top pocket on left side for hankerchief and lower pockets with flaps on both left and right sides with an inner change pocket on right hand side. No size label but seems to be a small.
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: England
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
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Script of material
Language and script notes
Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Colour/Print: Black
Details: 2 mother of pearl buttons
Label: Label 1. Austin Reed Cue Design Made in England 92% cotton 8% spun rayon 100% viscose lining. Label 2. Austin Reed call no. 6ADQ9008 size 4-0S-102C Made in England
Finding aids
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Notes area
Note
Invisible Men exhibition label:
BLACK VELVET JACKET
Austin Reed Cue
1967-1975
High street menswear chain Austin Reed responded to the 1960s change in men’s fashion by launching a boutique range called Cue in 1965. Referencing the velvet traditionally used for smoking jackets, this jacket could have been worn for day as well as evening wear.
Cotton, spun rayon, viscose
Archive no. 2018.11
Note
Invisible Men exhibition label:
BLACK VELVET JACKET
Austin Reed Cue
1967-1975
High street menswear chain Austin Reed responded to the 1960s change in men’s fashion by launching a boutique range called Cue in 1965. Referencing the velvet traditionally used for smoking jackets, this jacket could have been worn for day as well as evening wear.
Cotton, spun rayon, viscose
Archive no. 2018.11