Item 2017.337.47 - Calvin Klein Beige heat-bonded debossed foam/wool jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2017.337.47

Title

Calvin Klein Beige heat-bonded debossed foam/wool jacket

Date(s)

  • Fall 2009 runway look 33 (alternate color) (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

Context area

Name of creator

(1968-)

Administrative history

1968–present
Calvin Klein Collection 1973–2017 Calvin Klein 205W39NYC 2017–19
Calvin Klein Inc. was co-founded by Cavin Klein (b. 1942) and Barry Schwartz (b. 1942) in 1968. Initially producing womenswear, the company introduced menswear for Autumn Winter 1978 through an initial five-year licensing deal with Maurice Bidermann. In 1986 Klein bought the licence back from Bidermann Industries USA, planning to relaunch the menswear with an in-house design team later that year. However, it was not until Autumn Winter 1992 that Calvin Klein re-entered the menswear market after signing a manufacturing and marketing deal with GFT USA Corp. John Varvatos (b. 1954) served as head of menswear between 1990 and 1993, followed by Stephen Fairchild (b. 1962) as design director for menswear until 1996.
In 2003 Calvin Klein Inc. was sold to Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. (PVH) for US$400 million, plus US$30 million in stock and up to US$300 million in royalties tied to revenues over the next fifteen years. In 2003 Italo Zucchelli (b. 1965) was named as the creative director for the men’s Calvin Klein Collection, where he remained until 2016. Belgian designer Raf Simons (b. 1968) was announced in August 2016 as the new Chief Creative Officer of the brand, responsible for all aspects of design, marketing and communications, across all product lines for men and women. Under Simons, the Calvin Klein Collection was renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC and his first runway collection for the brand in February 2017 presented menswear and womenswear together. In December 2018, eight months before the end of his contract, it was announced that Simons would be leaving the company with immediate effect, as the company had decided on a different direction for the brand. In March 2019 Calvin Klein announced it was to discontinue the Calvin Klein Collection division of the brand.

Calvin Klein was named Menswear Designer of the Year in 1999 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and in 2009 the award went to Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection. In 2017 both the awards for Womenswear and Menswear Designer of the Year went to Raf Simons for Calvin Klein.
Sources: British Vogue; Dow Jones Institutional News; Lisa Marsh, The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession (Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2003); New York Post; The New York Times; WWD.

Archival history

Immediate source of acquisition or transfer

Content and structure area

Scope and content

Foam casual zip front jacket from heat-bonded foam. The sleeves feature three horizontal moulded stripes, while the main body includes vertical single jet pockets and both horizontal and vertical moulded sectioning. The collar is detailed with curved moulded accents.
Country of Design: United States
Country of Manufacture: Italy

Appraisal, destruction and scheduling

Accruals

System of arrangement

Conditions of access and use area

Conditions governing access

Conditions governing reproduction

Language of material

    Script of material

      Language and script notes

      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Materials: 90% wool 7% nylon 3% Spandex
      Condition: deterioration and breakdown of the foam inner layer which has lost volume over the shoulders and upper chest.

      Finding aids

      Allied materials area

      Existence and location of originals

      Existence and location of copies

      Related units of description

      Related descriptions

      Notes area

      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      MOULDED WOOL JACKET
      Calvin Klein
      2009

      For Autumn Winter 2009 Calvin Klein Creative Director Italo Zucchelli experimented with industrial bonding methods traditionally used to create padded bicycle seats. This process was reinterpreted to develop a wool jacket with horizontal and vertical moulded lines that are created using heat bonded foam.

      Wool, nylon, spandex
      Archive no. 2017.337.47

      Alternative identifier(s)

      Access points

      Subject access points

      Place access points

      Name access points

      Description control area

      Description identifier

      Institution identifier

      Rules and/or conventions used

      Status

      Level of detail

      Dates of creation revision deletion

      Language(s)

        Script(s)

          Sources

          Accession area