Item 2017.081.1 - Montague Burton Three Piece Suit - Jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2017.081.1

Title

Montague Burton Three Piece Suit - Jacket

Date(s)

  • 1930-1935 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(1900-1969)

Administrative history

Montague Burton Ltd was founded in the early 1900s by Jewish immigrant Montague Burton (1885-1952). Born a Lithuanian Jew named Meshe David Osinsky, he travelled to the north of England in 1900 and quickly entered the men's tailoring trade, changing his name at some point after his arrival. After starting with a shop selling menswear he began manufacturing and adopted the multiple tailoring model pioneered by the Leeds-based tailoring trade. Multiple tailors had high street stores selling made-to-measure men's suits (and smaller numbers of ready-to-wear) which were cut and sewn in factories owned by the same business. By the end of the 1930s Montague Burton Ltd had over 700 outlets across Great Britain and Ireland and their Hudson Road factory in Leeds was the biggest clothing factory in Europe.

Burton became the label for Montague Burton Ltd in 1954 after a company restructure and merger with Jackson the Tailor. This resulted in a complete redesign and launch of a comprehensive new advertising campaign aimed at young male consumers. In 1969 the company became the Burton Group. Its demerger in 1997 led to the establishment of the Arcadia Group.

In 1946 the company purchased the Peter Robinson department store and in 1968 it was the top floor of Sheffield's Peter Robinson which was the origin of Top Shop. Aimed at selling fashionable clothes to 15-25 year-old women it was immediately successful and became a retail chain in its own right. Burton attempted to reach young men with the Mr Burt label and stores in the early 1970s but they were not profitable. In 1978 after a major restructure and store closures the company again tried to cater to the young male fashion market with the launch of Top Man - by 1980 they had expanded to 45 shops.

Archival history

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Content and structure area

Scope and content

Black wool single-breasted three-button lounge jacket with peak lapels, crafted from twill serge as part of a three-piece suit. It features one slanted breast pocket and two hip pockets with deep flaps. The cuffs have three buttons with a sham vent. The jacket is lined in black cotton sateen, while the sleeves are lined in cream striped cotton. A Montague Burton label is sewn into the lining of the breast pocket, with a factory label inside the pocket. The jacket is made-to-measure, likely produced in the Burton factory on Hudson Road, Leeds, in the north of England.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Keywords: Formal day wear

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Wool, cotton
      Colour/Print: Black
      Details: Made-to-measure
      Label: 118-132, New Oxford St., London / MONTAGUE BURTON / The Tailor of Taste Ltd / 18-19 Princes St., Edinburgh

      Montague Burton Ltd (Bespoke Dept)

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      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      TAILORED SUIT JACKET
      Montague Burton Ltd
      1930-1939

      Montague Burton was a Lithuanian Jew who started his tailoring business in Leeds in the early 1900s. His company grew rapidly after the First World War, manufacturing and selling millions of tailored suits through the made-to-measure system during the twentieth century. This jacket is part of a formal three-piece lounge suit.

      Wool
      Archive no. 2017.081.1

      Note

      Burton House at 118-132 Oxford Street was opened in 1930. This label design was used until 1954.

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      THREE-PIECE SUIT JACKET
      Montague Burton Ltd
      1930–5
      In the early 1900s, Montague Burton, a Lithuanian Jew, established a tailoring business in Leeds, West Yorkshire. After the First World War, his company grew rapidly, producing and selling millions of custom-tailored suits. This jacket is part of a made-to-measure three-piece formal lounge suit ordered from a Burton store and then manufactured in one of the company factories in the north of England. The single-breasted, three-button jacket is made of black wool serge tailored to have a defined waist. It has peak lapels, one slanted breast pocket, two deep-flapped hip pockets, three buttons and a sham vent on each cuff. It is lined with black cotton sateen, the sleeves are lined with cream striped cotton, Montague Burton label on the inside chest, and a factory label inside the internal chest pocket.
      Wool, Cotton
      Archive no. 2017.081.1

      Alternative identifier(s)

      Alternative Identifier

      TA.BU.1a - 2017

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