Brown silk double breasted waistcoat with a roll collar. The silk has been woven to create a large check pattern with satin stripes, the squares of the checks are grosgrain with small blue dots. The fronts have been cut on the bias so that the checks are diagonal. The silk is in poor condition and has worn through in areas of rubbing leaving the cotton or linen warp threads.
It fastens at the front with four self-covered buttons (show eight) and with one metal button on the inside. There are two welted pockets lined in cotton twill. The back and under collar is made of tan cotton twill. There are two tabs for waist adjustment folded in half in a horizontal V shape and with three pairs of small metal eyelets. They lace with a length of cotton tape.
It is lined in plain white cotton with narrow dark brown leather strips at the hem of the fore parts and two small panels of grey silk under the arms. It has been altered to make it larger with panels inserted under the arms and the waist tabs moved. It has extensive staining under the arms, across the lower back and the front inside chest. The stains appear to be from sweat. All hand sewn.
无标题的Dark blue fine wool facecloth (woven cloth with felted nap) tailcoat. It is double-breasted and fastens with four pairs of triple-gilt gold coloured metal buttons, engraved with a design of flowers and leaves. The coat has wide lapels with narrow V-notches edged in black cord and two extra decorative buttonholes on each lapel. The collar is very high at the back and is reinforced with rows of stab stitches to the underside.
The tails at the rear have two inverted pleats from the centre waistband with two of the same gilt buttons sewn to the top of the pleats and two at the bottom hem. There is a pocket concealed within the rear left tail. The cuffs are curved, trimmed with black cord and three smaller gilt buttons.
The main body of the coat is unlined except for the underarms which are padded and quilted with black cotton. The sleeves are lined in tan linen or cotton. It is entirely hand stitched.
无标题的Blue silk cutaway coat worn for formal or court dress. It is heavily hand embroidered and has been extensively altered. The silk is satin with stripe created by raised weft threads which has worn away extensively in places. The coat has a high stand collar which has been altered, curved cutaway fronts, narrow slanted shoulders and tight curved sleeves.
The front right panel has eight large flat buttons - there are no buttonholes on the left side. There are two pockets, below the hips, with scalloped flaps and three buttons below. The sleeves have been altered or remade with panels created from patches of silk. The sleeves have turn back cuffs decorated with three large flat buttons and embroidery, the cuffs have been altered by being narrowed and the embroidery motifs have been cut out and appliqued on.
The back of the coat has narrow skirts with two vertical pleats on each side of the two tails (possibly unpicked) and a long centre back vent. The embroidery is of a design of summer grasses and flower heads in green, cream, pale pink and yellow silk threads worked in satin stitch. Bordering the main design is an embroidered lace net pattern in white silk threads. The flat buttons probably have a wooden core and have been covered in the main blue silk and embroidered with a small floral motif. A linen underlayer can be seen where the blue silk has worn through and there are linen pocket bags. Hand-sewn and hand-woven. It has been completely re-lined in a modern white cotton or polycotton fabric.
无标题的Jacket made of green moquette or plush pile fabric, probably mohair with curved cutaway fronts. It has a turn down collar and lapel, single breasted fastening with four large gold-coloured metal shank buttons. The buttons are back marked: 'A BROWN & SONS ST MARTINS LANE LONDON'. Hand sewn buttonholes. There are two smaller gold-coloured shank buttons on each sleeve cuff. It has two large flapped pockets with curved edges on each side of the chest and a small slit watch pocket on the right side front waist. Each side of the waist seam has a large flapped pocket which go around from front to back. The centre back has two pleats and a vent to the right from the waist seam to the hem with two gold-coloured metal buttons at the top.
The jacket is lined in grey and white finely checked tweed wool and the sleeves are lined in striped cotton sateen. There are two very large jetted 'poachers' pockets at the inside waist on the left and right side of the lining, each close with a brown button in the centre. There is an additional pocket to the inside left chest.
The pocket bags are all made of dark brown grey cotton twill and there is a hanging loop in the back of the neck.
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