Country of Design: India (Punjab)
Country of Manufacture: India (Punjab)
Keywords: Leisure wear, informal dress, night wear Designer unknown
Jacket made of green moquette or plush pile fabric, probably mohair with curved cutaway fronts. It has a turn down collar and lapel, single breasted fastening with four large gold-coloured metal shank buttons. The buttons are back marked: 'A BROWN & SONS ST MARTINS LANE LONDON'. Hand sewn buttonholes. There are two smaller gold-coloured shank buttons on each sleeve cuff. It has two large flapped pockets with curved edges on each side of the chest and a small slit watch pocket on the right side front waist. Each side of the waist seam has a large flapped pocket which go around from front to back. The centre back has two pleats and a vent to the right from the waist seam to the hem with two gold-coloured metal buttons at the top.
The jacket is lined in grey and white finely checked tweed wool and the sleeves are lined in striped cotton sateen. There are two very large jetted 'poachers' pockets at the inside waist on the left and right side of the lining, each close with a brown button in the centre. There is an additional pocket to the inside left chest.
The pocket bags are all made of dark brown grey cotton twill and there is a hanging loop in the back of the neck.
Designer unknownBlack silk plush bicorn hat with a fringe of black ostrich feathers around the top edges of both parts of the turned up brims. The silk plush has worn away across most of the sides of the exposed undersides of the brim but covers the crown and outside brims. Where the silk has deteriorated it exposes the body of the hat made of cardboard. One side of the folded up brim has a length of gold coloured metal thread woven tape with a large brass button embossed with the royal coat of arms over the top of a black silk ribbon rosette.
The lining of the hat is striped black silk satin with a quilted hat band around the inside of the crown. The top of the inner crown has a coat of arms and makers name printed in gold lettering. Machine and hand stitched.
Sandilands & SonBlue silk cutaway coat worn for formal or court dress. It is heavily hand embroidered and has been extensively altered. The silk is satin with stripe created by raised weft threads which has worn away extensively in places. The coat has a high stand collar which has been altered, curved cutaway fronts, narrow slanted shoulders and tight curved sleeves.
The front right panel has eight large flat buttons - there are no buttonholes on the left side. There are two pockets, below the hips, with scalloped flaps and three buttons below. The sleeves have been altered or remade with panels created from patches of silk. The sleeves have turn back cuffs decorated with three large flat buttons and embroidery, the cuffs have been altered by being narrowed and the embroidery motifs have been cut out and appliqued on.
The back of the coat has narrow skirts with two vertical pleats on each side of the two tails (possibly unpicked) and a long centre back vent. The embroidery is of a design of summer grasses and flower heads in green, cream, pale pink and yellow silk threads worked in satin stitch. Bordering the main design is an embroidered lace net pattern in white silk threads. The flat buttons probably have a wooden core and have been covered in the main blue silk and embroidered with a small floral motif. A linen underlayer can be seen where the blue silk has worn through and there are linen pocket bags. Hand-sewn and hand-woven. It has been completely re-lined in a modern white cotton or polycotton fabric.
Designer unknown