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2020.20 · Item · undated [1838-1842]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Dark blue fine wool facecloth (woven cloth with felted nap) tailcoat. It is double-breasted and fastens with four pairs of triple-gilt gold coloured metal buttons, engraved with a design of flowers and leaves. The coat has wide lapels with narrow V-notches edged in black cord and two extra decorative buttonholes on each lapel. The collar is very high at the back and is reinforced with rows of stab stitches to the underside.

The tails at the rear have two inverted pleats from the centre waistband with two of the same gilt buttons sewn to the top of the pleats and two at the bottom hem. There is a pocket concealed within the rear left tail. The cuffs are curved, trimmed with black cord and three smaller gilt buttons.

The main body of the coat is unlined except for the underarms which are padded and quilted with black cotton. The sleeves are lined in tan linen or cotton. It is entirely hand stitched.

Designer unknown
Wool Facecloth Frock Coat
2020.21.1 · Item · undated [1785-1795]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Long frock coat made from beige-pink wool facecloth (a woven wool with a felted nap), features cutaway fronts and is adorned with ten large faceted and cut steel metal buttons along the right front opening. Opposite, on the left side, are ten wide, corded non-functional buttonholes. The coat has a 5 cm collar and deep turnback cuffs on the narrow, fitted sleeves. The torso is closely fitted, with the coat fronts curving away to form a wide opening at hip level, revealing two side-hip pockets with deep flaps.

The back of the coat has a long centre vent extending to hip level. At the top of doubled inverted pleats on either side of the vent opening, aligned with the rear side seams, is a faceted and cut steel button, enhancing the fullness of the coat's skirt. Near the bottom hem on either side of the centre vent are two additional matching faceted steel buttons. The coat fronts are lined in pale pink silk.

Designer unknown
2020.21.2 · Item · undated [1785-1800]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Pair of pale yellow wool facecloth (woven wool with a felted nap) breeches. They have a fall front. The front flap is fastened to the waist part of the breeches with two small self covered buttons. The front waist opens down the centre under the fall front and fastens at the fly with one small self covered button. At the top it fastens with three larger self covered buttons (visible when the front flap is buttoned). On each side are two additional self covered buttons. On the right side of the waist is a small welted pocket, there are two additional pockets at hip level with wide openings and uneven welts.

The rear of the breeches are gathered to the wide waistband with a V-notch in the centre back. The V is filled with a section of off-white linen or cotton with a pinked edge at the top. There are two wide tabs sewn on to the waistband for waist adjustment, one with a wide buttonhole.

The leg openings of the breeches fasten with six self covered buttons and tabs at the cuffs. The inside of the bottom hems are lined with pink velvet to hold stockings in place. The breeches are lined in off white linen or cotton around the waistband, pocket bags, fall front and inside leg buttoning openings.

Designer unknown
Black Silk Waistcoat
2020.21.3 · Item · undated [1785-1800]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Short black silk twill waistcoat with square fronts. It fastens centre front with eight small self covered buttons and has a narrow collar. It has two front horizontal welted pockets at waist level. The back is made of black wool and has four brown cotton or linen adjustment ribbon ties at the centre back (three missing). Designer unknown
2020.22 · Item · 2019
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Dark blue track pants made of cotton mix fabric with red, black and orange striped wide webbing down the outside of each leg. They have an elasticated waist with draw cord fastening. There are draw cords around a channel just above the hem of each trouser cuff which can be tied on the outside over the webbing. There is a zipped vertical pocket to the side and a horizontal pocket to the rear which have ring pull tabs. The back pocket has the Fred Perry laurel wreath logo embroidered in red thread. Fred Perry
2020.23.1 · Item · undated [1875-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Long sleeved shirt made of light yellow fine chamois leather. It opens down the front, crossing over and fastening with four white buttons to the right side, and one button to the left side at the neck. The button holes are hand stitched. The neck opening has a slight V shape at the centre front as does the right side of the shirt. The neck, edges of each front side, the lower hem, and the cuffs are all trimmed with white twill weave cotton tape. The cuffs fasten with one button and button hole. The bottom edge of the shirt is curved so it is slightly longer at the centre front and back than at the side seams. The panels are made of two different shades of yellow chamois, one slightly lighter. It is sewn with a mixture of hand and machine stitching. Designer unknown
2020.23.2 · Item · undated [1875-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

A pair of narrow-leg underwear trousers (drawers) made from light yellow chamois leather. They fasten at the centre front with a button fly, featuring five white buttons, with hand-stitched buttonholes. Each cuff has a short vent, secured by an internal button. The centre back includes triangular panels on either side of the centre back seam for added structure.

The waistband, front fly, and inside cuffs are lined with brown sateen cotton. White cotton tape is sewn into the inside of the waistband at the back and both sides of the front, designed for attaching trouser braces buttons. The construction is a combination of machine and hand stitching.

Designer unknown
2020.23.3 · Item · undated [1875-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Pair of narrow leg trousers made of thick white cotton woven to create a stretch effect and with a pattern of uneven horizontal lines in the weave. They have a fall front with four button holes across the top of the flap, one button at the centre waist opening and seven buttons across the top of the front waistband, four on the right and three on the left. All of the buttons except one are bone but do not match, one button is plastic. Two of the bone buttons are probably original. There are slit pockets to each side of the front and two vertical sewn down tabs with V shaped ends on each side of the front flap.

The centre back waistband has a V notch. The back waist can be adjusted with two tabs below the waistband which fasten with a button hole and button (missing) and a metal buckle. The buckle is inscribed with 'A M & Cie'. There are two short vents in each cuff on the outside seam. The waistband and fall front are lined in fine white cotton.

Buckle made in France.

Designer unknown
2020.24.1 · Item · undated [1800-1830]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
White linen duck trousers with a fall front. The front flap is the width of the front of the trousers and fastens with four buttons. The fly of the trousers fastens with three exposed buttons. Below the buttons for the flap are two slanting pockets with white cotton bags, one on each side of the fly. At the waist are four front buttons for braces, on the right side of the front waist is a small curved opening for a pocket. The back waist is higher and shaped with two triangular panels with two buttons for braces. All of the buttons are brass discs with a fine twisted rope decoration. The inside waist is lined in white cotton twill, at the back is written E.H.S. in black ink. The trousers have wide straight legs. They are entirely hand sewn. Designer unknown
Jockey Silks Jacket
2020.24.2 · Item · undated [1860-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Short jacket made of dark green brown silk with a central wide stripe around the chest of bright red silk. It has a matching cap of bright red silk. The jacket has a turn down collar and lapels and fastens at the front opening with four self covered buttons. The centre two buttons are covered in red silk, the top and bottom buttons are covered in dark brown silk to match the underlying fabric. Each cuff has two small self covered dark brown buttons. It has a centre back seam with short vent and angled dropped shoulder seams at the back. It is unlined, machine and hand sewn. Samuel Merry & Co.