Country of design: England
Country of Manufacture: Portugal Paul Smith
Designed in England.
Made in Italy. Alexander McQueen
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom National Coal Board
Long, dark blue, double breasted coat with volume at centre front. The volume falls from under the peak lapel, and is pleated at the first set of buttons, secured to the centre front facing with one line of stitching on top, and one underneath the pleat. The shape of the pleat is held in place by the stitching of the lower button hole and button that is stitched through to the narrower facing.
The coat body has one long dart through the double jet pocket, and the front side seam becomes a dart which finishes at the same point below the pocket. The coat fastens with a leather basket weave button, painted black (showing wear). The coat body is unstructured, with a small shoulder pad at the end of the shoulder seam. Button holes are bound leather. Three buttons on sleeve cuff. Made in Japan.
Yohji Yamamoto Pour HommeBespoke tailored wool jacket (part of a two piece suit) with large single breasted lapels. The lapels are wide and curve in towards the button closure. The collar has a notched point with a single button hole on the left side.
The centre front closes with a single button with hand stitched button hole. The jacket overall shape is slim, narrow at the shoulders and fitted on the waist. The back of the jacket has a yoke seam and a seam at the waist, both finished with a hand pick stitch. The section between is formed of three vertical pleats, a variation of an American sport jacket. Below the waist seam, the back seam becomes a double vent, secured at the top with a row of hand stitching.
The front body of the jacket has a patch pocket with rounded corners and a box pleat. The edges of the pocket are all hand pick stitched. The sleeve has a single functioning button. All edges are secured with hand stitching. With original hanger 2019.63.16. Designed and made in England.
Tommy Nutter