Country of Design: United States
Country of Manufacture: United States
Keywords: Ceremonial uniform, dress uniform Designer unknown
Blue silk cutaway coat worn for formal or court dress. It is heavily hand embroidered and has been extensively altered. The silk is satin with stripe created by raised weft threads which has worn away extensively in places. The coat has a high stand collar which has been altered, curved cutaway fronts, narrow slanted shoulders and tight curved sleeves.
The front right panel has eight large flat buttons - there are no buttonholes on the left side. There are two pockets, below the hips, with scalloped flaps and three buttons below. The sleeves have been altered or remade with panels created from patches of silk. The sleeves have turn back cuffs decorated with three large flat buttons and embroidery, the cuffs have been altered by being narrowed and the embroidery motifs have been cut out and appliqued on.
The back of the coat has narrow skirts with two vertical pleats on each side of the two tails (possibly unpicked) and a long centre back vent. The embroidery is of a design of summer grasses and flower heads in green, cream, pale pink and yellow silk threads worked in satin stitch. Bordering the main design is an embroidered lace net pattern in white silk threads. The flat buttons probably have a wooden core and have been covered in the main blue silk and embroidered with a small floral motif. A linen underlayer can be seen where the blue silk has worn through and there are linen pocket bags. Hand-sewn and hand-woven. It has been completely re-lined in a modern white cotton or polycotton fabric.
Designer unknownCream silk brocade satin waistcoat with a shawl or roll collar, woven in cream and pale brown threads with a design of squiggles and a scattered floral and leaf motif in blue and white. The silk shows signs of wear and thinning where it has creased or been rubbed, particularly around the collar, bottom hem, and buttonholes.
The waistcoat is single-breasted, fastening at the centre front with seven small self-covered buttons and hand-worked buttonholes. It includes two horizontal welted pockets, lined with brown cotton silesia, and trimmed along the collar, fronts, and pocket welts with a fine round braid. The back panel is crafted from brown cotton silesia, featuring an adjustable waist with two wide tabs threaded with white linen tape through three pairs of metal eyelets. The bottom edge of the back panels curves gently into the centre back seam.
The forepart is lined with cream cotton in a blue check pattern, with a tan leather strip at the hem, likely added to protect against friction from trouser brace buttons. A linen interlining is present, and the back lining is in plain white cotton. The waistcoat is entirely hand-sewn.
Designer unknownBrown silk double breasted waistcoat with a roll collar. The silk has been woven to create a large check pattern with satin stripes, the squares of the checks are grosgrain with small blue dots. The fronts have been cut on the bias so that the checks are diagonal. The silk is in poor condition and has worn through in areas of rubbing leaving the cotton or linen warp threads.
It fastens at the front with four self-covered buttons (show eight) and with one metal button on the inside. There are two welted pockets lined in cotton twill. The back and under collar is made of tan cotton twill. There are two tabs for waist adjustment folded in half in a horizontal V shape and with three pairs of small metal eyelets. They lace with a length of cotton tape.
It is lined in plain white cotton with narrow dark brown leather strips at the hem of the fore parts and two small panels of grey silk under the arms. It has been altered to make it larger with panels inserted under the arms and the waist tabs moved. It has extensive staining under the arms, across the lower back and the front inside chest. The stains appear to be from sweat. All hand sewn.
Designer unknown