Showing 48 results

Archival description
Knights Templar Frock Coat
2017.027 · Item · 1890-1900
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Black wool facecloth double breasted frock coat with stand collar. It features small goldwork embroidered crosses with red wool interiors on each collar and two larger crosses of the same design on each cuff. These crosses are the badges for a Sir Knight rank. It has two rows of seven wool shank buttons down the front with two rows of matching button holes - damage to the wool covering of the buttons, especially on the right side. Three smaller wool shank buttons on each cuff with two buttons at the centre waist on the back above the tail pleats and two at the bottom of the pleats. It is lined in black cotton sateen. There is a vertical pocket in the left chest lining (with stitching evidence of a missing tailors label) and two pockets in the coat tails (lined in chintz cotton).
Country of Design: United States
Country of Manufacture: United States
Keywords: Ceremonial uniform, dress uniform
Designer unknown
2017.273.2 · Item · undated [1850-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Forest green wool facecloth vest or waistcoat with green cotton sateen back and gold metal thread work looped lacing and Austrian knot work. It has a deep curved neckline which is edged in gold coloured pointed glass beads. It closes centre front with 5 pairs of black japanned metal hooks and eyes which alternate. Lined in cream cotton and with a green cotton sateen back strap with black japanned two prong metal buckle with 'BRITISH' engraved into it. There is a name stamped in black ink on the lining 'J. S. Philips' and handwritten in green pencil 'R S M GRAHAM'.
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: England
Keywords: Military uniform, ceremonial dress, mess dress, full dress
Designer unknown
2017.351.5 · Item · undated [1880-1910]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Smoking coat or dressing gown made from a piece of phulkari bagh embroidery. The ground of the fabric is dark orange red cotton which has been hand embroidered all over in a square and diamond shaped geometric pattern in three different shades of gold silk floss thread (untwisted). The gown has been made to avoid cutting the textile with details such as pleats over the shoulders and overlapped embroidered selvedge edges down the centre back. The bell shaped sleeves are lined in dark red silk. It fastens centre front with three metal hooks and cotton thread loops. There is a short tab or bar roughly stitched to the left side of the centre front opening near the top loop. Small ink stains to the right front edge, the bottom hem is unfinished with a raw fraying edge.
Country of Design: India (Punjab)
Country of Manufacture: India (Punjab)
Keywords: Leisure wear, informal dress, night wear
Designer unknown
2017.351.6 · Item · undated [1870-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Dark gold coloured silk velvet smoking cap with circular flat top. It has been hand embroidered in dark gold braid and threads in a pattern of five-pointed leaves which circle around the silk thread covered button in the centre of the top of the cap and around the cap edges. The button fastens a long fine braid tassel. The cap is lined in machine quilted brown silk in a pattern of horizontal lines.
Country of Design: Britain
Country of Manufacture: Britain
Keywords: Leisure wear, informal dress, night wear, smoking
Designer unknown
Silk Embroidered Waistcoat
2018.142 · Item · undated 1870-1900
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Hand made silk waistcoat with four double jetted pockets, two on each side. The front body is emboridered with two tone green vertical stripes on a cream background. The centre front edge, neckline and centre armhole are finished with dark green bias tape. The back of the waistcoat is a plain cream silk. The jacket fastens with 6 buttons with handstitched buttonholes. Three of the buttons have a smal metal rivet in the centre, the lower three are flat fronted.
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom
Werge, Sarah Elizabeth
Blue Silk Embroidered Coat
2018.249 · Item · undated [1780-1790]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Blue silk cutaway coat worn for formal or court dress. It is heavily hand embroidered and has been extensively altered. The silk is satin with stripe created by raised weft threads which has worn away extensively in places. The coat has a high stand collar which has been altered, curved cutaway fronts, narrow slanted shoulders and tight curved sleeves.

The front right panel has eight large flat buttons - there are no buttonholes on the left side. There are two pockets, below the hips, with scalloped flaps and three buttons below. The sleeves have been altered or remade with panels created from patches of silk. The sleeves have turn back cuffs decorated with three large flat buttons and embroidery, the cuffs have been altered by being narrowed and the embroidery motifs have been cut out and appliqued on.

The back of the coat has narrow skirts with two vertical pleats on each side of the two tails (possibly unpicked) and a long centre back vent. The embroidery is of a design of summer grasses and flower heads in green, cream, pale pink and yellow silk threads worked in satin stitch. Bordering the main design is an embroidered lace net pattern in white silk threads. The flat buttons probably have a wooden core and have been covered in the main blue silk and embroidered with a small floral motif. A linen underlayer can be seen where the blue silk has worn through and there are linen pocket bags. Hand-sewn and hand-woven. It has been completely re-lined in a modern white cotton or polycotton fabric.

Designer unknown
2018.250 · Item · undated [1835-1850]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Cream silk brocade satin waistcoat with a shawl or roll collar, woven in cream and pale brown threads with a design of squiggles and a scattered floral and leaf motif in blue and white. The silk shows signs of wear and thinning where it has creased or been rubbed, particularly around the collar, bottom hem, and buttonholes.

The waistcoat is single-breasted, fastening at the centre front with seven small self-covered buttons and hand-worked buttonholes. It includes two horizontal welted pockets, lined with brown cotton silesia, and trimmed along the collar, fronts, and pocket welts with a fine round braid. The back panel is crafted from brown cotton silesia, featuring an adjustable waist with two wide tabs threaded with white linen tape through three pairs of metal eyelets. The bottom edge of the back panels curves gently into the centre back seam.

The forepart is lined with cream cotton in a blue check pattern, with a tan leather strip at the hem, likely added to protect against friction from trouser brace buttons. A linen interlining is present, and the back lining is in plain white cotton. The waistcoat is entirely hand-sewn.

Designer unknown
2018.251 · Item · undated [1830-1845]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive

Brown silk double breasted waistcoat with a roll collar. The silk has been woven to create a large check pattern with satin stripes, the squares of the checks are grosgrain with small blue dots. The fronts have been cut on the bias so that the checks are diagonal. The silk is in poor condition and has worn through in areas of rubbing leaving the cotton or linen warp threads.

It fastens at the front with four self-covered buttons (show eight) and with one metal button on the inside. There are two welted pockets lined in cotton twill. The back and under collar is made of tan cotton twill. There are two tabs for waist adjustment folded in half in a horizontal V shape and with three pairs of small metal eyelets. They lace with a length of cotton tape.

It is lined in plain white cotton with narrow dark brown leather strips at the hem of the fore parts and two small panels of grey silk under the arms. It has been altered to make it larger with panels inserted under the arms and the waist tabs moved. It has extensive staining under the arms, across the lower back and the front inside chest. The stains appear to be from sweat. All hand sewn.

Designer unknown
Silk Opera Hat
2018.252.1 · Item · undated [1850-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Black silk grosgrain 'opera' top hat which is collapsable. It has a black grosgrain ribbon around the bottom of the crown and the inside of the crown is lined in white leather. The crown is held up by collapsable metal frame and springs, as well as four cream silk ribbons (three are broken). The inside top of the crown is lined in cream silk printed in black with a head in a Roman helmet over a shield with 'L' over 'LONDON. W.' Designer unknown
Gibus Opera Hat Box
2018.252.2 · Item · undated [1850-1900]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Shallow oval shaped cardboard box and lid, coloured dark red on the outside. The lid is printed in gold lettering: GIBUS / INVENTOR OF THE OPERA HAT / 10 CHANDOS STREET, CHARING CROSS / W.C. The front of the box has 'GIBUS' printed in gold lettering. The lid and box are attached with a piece of red cotton tape. Gibus