Navy blue facecloth wool tunic with horizontal yellow mohair cord looped lacing (braid) down the front, Austrian knots on the sleeve cuffs and the back. The yellow mohair cord also binds the front opening, hem, cuffs and the stand collar. It closes centre front with 13 black jappaned metal hooks and eyes and buttons with six brass coloured metal shank dome buttons etched with 'SMITH & WRIGHT LTD B'HAM' on the reverse and yellow mohair cord loops. The torso is lined in cream rough twill wool (blanket) lining, the sleeves are lined in white cotton, the skirts are unlined. On each shoulder are brass badges (Shoulder Titles) '14 / 20H' in between two lines. On the stand collar are pewter coloured metal lapel badges of a Prussian eagle.
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom
Keywords: Military, dress uniform, ceremonial uniform
British Army
Black wool double breasted tailcoat with peak lapels and square taills. It has six black woven thread wrapped shank buttons down the front with six (open) buttonholes. Two of the same buttons are at the centre back waist, and two smaller black thread wrapped shank buttons are on each cuff. It is lined in black rayon? and cotton with cream striped cotton lining the sleeves. There are vertical slit pockets in the top of each tail and pockets in the chest lining. The one on the right contains the tailor's label. There is a woven black and yellow label in the back of the neck which is shredding, only 'BERLIN' is visable. The buttons have 'C. H. R. BERLIN' engraved into the black japanned metal backs. The coat has been skillfully let out and altered - evidence from inserts in the lining under each armhole and where the front buttons appear to have been moved.
Country of Design: Germany
Country of Manufacture: Germany
Keywords: Evening dress
Peek & Cloppenburg
Red wool flannel blazer or jacket, single breasted with three brass shank buttons. The jacket is trimmed with red grosgrain ribbon around the collar, pockets, cuffs and the bottom hem. The ribbon has two fine black stripes on each edge. The front of the jacket has three patch pockets with two at the hips and one on the right chest. No lining. It has a coat loop at the back of the neck. The shoulder seams have been cut so they angle down the back rather than straight long the shoulder line.
Country of Design: England
Keywords: Sport, leisure, boating, rowing
Designer unknown
Black wool bespoke tailored evening waistcoat with deep shawl collar trimmed with fine black braid around the collar, pocket welts and the front bottom hem. It is lined with cream silk satin which has been hand stitched and the back is made of black silk (?) twill. Fastening at the centre front with three buttons and three hand finished buttonholes. Two functional pockets with welts on the bottom left and right front panels. The back has a V shaped notch in the bottom hem and two black silk (?) backstraps (tabs) which have been altered by hand stitching them down and fasten with a black lacquered metal two pronged buckle with 'BRITISH' on one side and 'ARMFIELD B'HAM' [Birmingham] on the other. Label hand stitched into the back of the left backstrap. Made by Billings & Edmonds Ltd of London and Godalming for A. E. Sursham.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Keywords: Evening dress, formal wear, tailoring, bespoke
Billings & Edmonds Ltd
Very worn mauve coloured (due to considerable fading, perhaps brown originally) English moleskin trousers. They are high waisted with a raised curved back panel and four dark brown plastic front buttons and one back button (one missing) attached to the top of the waistband for the attachment of braces. There are two front western pockets with black tab details (both of which have frayed considerably) and no back pockets. The waistband is faced with the same cotton used for the pocket bags. The same black cotton is used to face the hems to provide protection against the friction riding boots would have caused (the cotton is very frayed). The trousers have a long fly front with a five button closure. Both legs have large rectangular knee patches in the same moleskin fabric to repair worn a frayed right knee. They have a small pocket inserted into the right side seam just below hip level with a long accommodating pocket bag that runs down the side of the right leg (for a knife or tool?). The back rise has black tape sewn along the centre of the seam for additional support. All of the black top stitching is poorly manufactured and very uneven across the whole garment.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Keywords: workwear
Designer unknown
Red white tie tailcoat belonging to the 3rd (The King's Own) Hussars cavalry regiment. It features striking 3rd Hussars hunt brass buttons by Pitt & Co. Ltd with two positioned on either side of the front jacket and four smaller buttons on the working cuffs. It has two buttons at the rear above the long vent that also features a pocket within the left tail. The lapels are curved with the silk twill lining filling in the shape of the lapel, finished with three decorative tacks on each side. It has rows of stitching on the chest lining to create a more structured silhouette. The back is constructed of six shaped panels to give it a narrow, more fitted cut. The coat is hand stitched and fully lined with the tails and lapels in red silk and a beige coloured silk used for the body and sleeve lining. It has an internal pocket on the left hand side.
Found in one of the tail pockets: Ten shilling note (signed by J. Q. Hollom, Chief Cashier 1962-1966)
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Designer unknown
Red white tie tailcoat belonging to the 3rd (The King's Own) Hussars cavalry regiment. It features striking 3rd Hussars hunt brass buttons by Pitt & Co. Ltd with two positioned on either side of the front jacket and four smaller buttons on the working cuffs. It has two buttons at the rear above the long vent that also features a pocket within the left tail. The lapels are curved with the silk twill lining filling in the shape of the lapel, finished with three decorative tacks on each side. It has rows of stitching on the chest lining to create a more structured silhouette. The back is constructed of six shaped panels to give it a narrow, more fitted cut. The coat is hand stitched and fully lined with the tails and lapels in red silk and a beige coloured silk used for the body and sleeve lining. It has an internal pocket on the left hand side.
Found in one of the tail pockets: Ten shilling note (signed by J. Q. Hollom, Chief Cashier 1962-1966)
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Designer unknown
Black wool gentleman's tailcoat from 1917 with contrast fabric peaked lapels. It has six decorative black plastic buttons in a V formation on the front of the coat and a welt breasted pocket. There are two buttons on the waistline above the back vent separating the two tails. Both cuffs have four buttons. It has distinctive shoulder padding on the shoulder blades to create a more a more structured silhouette. It is fully lined with an internal breast pocket on the right side and another pocket in the left tail. Both pockets have production labels sewn into them. It belongs to a 'Tony Dover', as handwritten in the lining along with '175 Thistles'.
Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom
Burton
White lightweight woven cotton 'athletic union suit' underwear. It is a one-piece garment, sleeveless with a V-neck and scoop back, opens down the centre front and fastens with five white buttons. There is a flap opening at the back which fastens with one white button. Inserted at the back waist is cream cotton knitted jersey rib with two wide belt loops, the straps of the vest part are made of white cotton knitted jersey ribbing. Between the top and second button has been printed with 'PAT' and numbers (indecipherable). Makers label in the back of the neck.
B.V.D.
A pair of pale cream underwear made from fine artificial silk and cotton, with legs extending to mid-thigh. The underwear has a high waist, with woven cotton reinforcing the inside of the fly. At the centre back of the waist are four eyelet holes for lacing, allowing for adjustable fitting. The front fly remains open, with a two-button and buttonhole fastening at the centre front waist (buttons are missing). Inside the front right waist is the maker's label for Aertex, featuring the name in black lettering within a red oval. The garment has been altered by threading a length of white elastic through the waistband, creating two holes at the centre back and two at the front (now removed). Size: 38
Country of manufacture: England.
Aertex
