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Peek & Cloppenburg Tailcoat
2017.085 · Item · 1901-1920
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Black wool double breasted tailcoat with peak lapels and square taills. It has six black woven thread wrapped shank buttons down the front with six (open) buttonholes. Two of the same buttons are at the centre back waist, and two smaller black thread wrapped shank buttons are on each cuff. It is lined in black rayon? and cotton with cream striped cotton lining the sleeves. There are vertical slit pockets in the top of each tail and pockets in the chest lining. The one on the right contains the tailor's label. There is a woven black and yellow label in the back of the neck which is shredding, only 'BERLIN' is visable. The buttons have 'C. H. R. BERLIN' engraved into the black japanned metal backs. The coat has been skillfully let out and altered - evidence from inserts in the lining under each armhole and where the front buttons appear to have been moved.
Country of Design: Germany
Country of Manufacture: Germany
Keywords: Evening dress Peek & Cloppenburg
Suede Farming Breeches
2017.351.11 · Item · undated [1900-1910]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Breeches made of suede (buff leather) with a fall front opening and entirely hand stitched in pink thread. The fall front has two button holes and back of the waist is high with a V shaped notch and leather lacing. They have buttons for braces. They fasten with a range of different buttons. These include eight brass buttons by Thomas and Sons, 32 Brook Street W. One smaller button at the waist by Huntsman London W and one vegetable ivory by Strong Brothers, Moreton. Each cuff fastens with five mother of pearl shell buttons.
Country of Design: Britain
Country of Manufacture: Britain
Keywords: Farming clothing, work wear, protective wear, country clothing, hunting, horse riding Designer unknown
Boating Blazer
2017.351.2 · Item · undated [1900-1920]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Red wool flannel blazer or jacket, single breasted with three brass shank buttons. The jacket is trimmed with red grosgrain ribbon around the collar, pockets, cuffs and the bottom hem. The ribbon has two fine black stripes on each edge. The front of the jacket has three patch pockets with two at the hips and one on the right chest. No lining. It has a coat loop at the back of the neck. The shoulder seams have been cut so they angle down the back rather than straight long the shoulder line.
Country of Design: England
Keywords: Sport, leisure, boating, rowing Designer unknown
Billings & Edmonds Evening Waistcoat with Shawl Collar
2017.351.4 · Item · undated [1899 - 1920]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Black wool bespoke tailored evening waistcoat with deep shawl collar trimmed with fine black braid around the collar, pocket welts and the front bottom hem. It is lined with cream silk satin which has been hand stitched and the back is made of black silk (?) twill. Fastening at the centre front with three buttons and three hand finished buttonholes. Two functional pockets with welts on the bottom left and right front panels. The back has a V shaped notch in the bottom hem and two black silk (?) backstraps (tabs) which have been altered by hand stitching them down and fasten with a black lacquered metal two pronged buckle with 'BRITISH' on one side and 'ARMFIELD B'HAM' [Birmingham] on the other. Label hand stitched into the back of the left backstrap. Made by Billings & Edmonds Ltd of London and Godalming for A. E. Sursham.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Keywords: Evening dress, formal wear, tailoring, bespoke Billings & Edmonds Ltd
Smoking Coat or Dressing Gown made of Phulkari Silk Embroidery
2017.351.5 · Item · undated [1880-1910]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Smoking coat or dressing gown made from a piece of phulkari bagh embroidery. The ground of the fabric is dark orange red cotton which has been hand embroidered all over in a square and diamond shaped geometric pattern in three different shades of gold silk floss thread (untwisted). The gown has been made to avoid cutting the textile with details such as pleats over the shoulders and overlapped embroidered selvedge edges down the centre back. The bell shaped sleeves are lined in dark red silk. It fastens centre front with three metal hooks and cotton thread loops. There is a short tab or bar roughly stitched to the left side of the centre front opening near the top loop. Small ink stains to the right front edge, the bottom hem is unfinished with a raw fraying edge.
Country of Design: India (Punjab)
Country of Manufacture: India (Punjab)
Keywords: Leisure wear, informal dress, night wear Designer unknown
English Moleskin Work Trousers
2018.143 · Item · undated [1900-1930]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Very worn mauve coloured (due to considerable fading, perhaps brown originally) English moleskin trousers. They are high waisted with a raised curved back panel and four dark brown plastic front buttons and one back button (one missing) attached to the top of the waistband for the attachment of braces. There are two front western pockets with black tab details (both of which have frayed considerably) and no back pockets. The waistband is faced with the same cotton used for the pocket bags. The same black cotton is used to face the hems to provide protection against the friction riding boots would have caused (the cotton is very frayed). The trousers have a long fly front with a five button closure. Both legs have large rectangular knee patches in the same moleskin fabric to repair worn a frayed right knee. They have a small pocket inserted into the right side seam just below hip level with a long accommodating pocket bag that runs down the side of the right leg (for a knife or tool?). The back rise has black tape sewn along the centre of the seam for additional support. All of the black top stitching is poorly manufactured and very uneven across the whole garment.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: England
Keywords: workwear Designer unknown
Cream Summer Jacket with Turned Up Cuffs
2019.120.3 · Item · undated [1900-1910]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Single breasted jacket in a lightweight, cream fabric. Jacket has notched lapels, with a buttonhole on the left, and is front fastening via a cream button. The cuffs of the jacket turn back and at either side of the waist there is a flap pocket. On the inside of the jacket there are two large pockets. Designer unknown
Pair of Silk Socks
2020.10 · Item · nd [1900-1920]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Pair of socks made of finely knitted cream silk. They have decorative clocks on each side and long ribbing sections at the top. The toes, heels and foot of the socks are shaped through the knitting. They have been darned and mended with a patch on the inside of one of the toes. Designer unknown
Linen shirt
2020.58 · Item · undated [1900-1910]
Part of Westminster Menswear Archive
Long sleeved linen shirt with bib front and button holes for dress studs or removable buttons. Small monogram in red embroidery 'CF' or GF'. Machine sewn with hand worked buttonholes. Designer unknown