Identity area
Reference code
2020.3.21
Title
Nigel Cabourn Hospital Shirt
Date(s)
- 2015 (Creation)
Level of description
Item
Extent and medium
1
Context area
Name of creator
(1989-)
Biographical history
Cricket Clothing Ltd 1971–88 Nigel Cabourn 1989–present
Nigel Cabourn (b. 1949) founded his first brand Cricket Clothing Ltd in 1971, during his final year of study at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design. Paul Smith became his agent in 1972, assisting him to get his designs into retail outlets across the UK. Nigel Cabourn collections were shown in Paris from 1973 to 1985. In 1980 the Nigel Cabourn name was licensed to the Japanese company Anglobal who continue to distribute the brand in Japan and elsewhere in the world. The company was financed from 1985 to 1988 by Peter Bertelsen’s Aguecheek firm, which also financed John Galliano, Richard James and Alistair Blair. In 2000, Ted Baker assumed commercial responsibility for the Nigel Cabourn menswear brand, including marketing, production and distribution. The label became known for its use of Cabourn’s personal archive collection of between 3,000 and 4,000 workwear and military garments. In 2002 they began to focus on special limited-edition collections, starting with their Everest collection ‘The Ascent of Nigel Cabourn’, released in 2003. Garments included the Antarctic Parka and the Cameraman Jacket. The company formed a three-year partnership with Debenhams in 2005 to create the Nigel Cabourn Utility collection. In 2014 the first Nigel Cabourn store, The Army Gym, opened at 28 Henrietta Street, London. By 2018, the company had expanded to four distinct lines: Nigel Cabourn Authentic, manufactured in the UK; Nigel Cabourn Mainline, manufactured in Japan; Lybro, a reimagined version of the British workwear brand founded in 1927; and Nigel Cabourn Army Gym. The label has collaborated with a variety of brands, including Gloverall, Eddie Bauer, Henri-Lloyd, Tretorn, Converse, Closed, Fred Perry, Karrimor,
Converse, Red Wing, Umbro and Filson.
Sources: heddels.com; redingote.fr; Retail Week; The Evening Chronicle; The Journal; WWD.
Nigel Cabourn (b. 1949) founded his first brand Cricket Clothing Ltd in 1971, during his final year of study at Newcastle College of Art and Industrial Design. Paul Smith became his agent in 1972, assisting him to get his designs into retail outlets across the UK. Nigel Cabourn collections were shown in Paris from 1973 to 1985. In 1980 the Nigel Cabourn name was licensed to the Japanese company Anglobal who continue to distribute the brand in Japan and elsewhere in the world. The company was financed from 1985 to 1988 by Peter Bertelsen’s Aguecheek firm, which also financed John Galliano, Richard James and Alistair Blair. In 2000, Ted Baker assumed commercial responsibility for the Nigel Cabourn menswear brand, including marketing, production and distribution. The label became known for its use of Cabourn’s personal archive collection of between 3,000 and 4,000 workwear and military garments. In 2002 they began to focus on special limited-edition collections, starting with their Everest collection ‘The Ascent of Nigel Cabourn’, released in 2003. Garments included the Antarctic Parka and the Cameraman Jacket. The company formed a three-year partnership with Debenhams in 2005 to create the Nigel Cabourn Utility collection. In 2014 the first Nigel Cabourn store, The Army Gym, opened at 28 Henrietta Street, London. By 2018, the company had expanded to four distinct lines: Nigel Cabourn Authentic, manufactured in the UK; Nigel Cabourn Mainline, manufactured in Japan; Lybro, a reimagined version of the British workwear brand founded in 1927; and Nigel Cabourn Army Gym. The label has collaborated with a variety of brands, including Gloverall, Eddie Bauer, Henri-Lloyd, Tretorn, Converse, Closed, Fred Perry, Karrimor,
Converse, Red Wing, Umbro and Filson.
Sources: heddels.com; redingote.fr; Retail Week; The Evening Chronicle; The Journal; WWD.
Repository
Archival history
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
Dark grey ‘Hospital’ shirt in thick wool, cotton, linen mix fabric - possibly whole garment dyed. The shirt has a turn-down collar and fastens centre front with a dress front button placket and five buttons. At the collar there is a tab which fastens with two small black plastic buttons and the collar is lined in grey cotton. Over the main button placket at the top is a v-shaped panel with double stitched edges. On the chest are two patch pockets with buttoning flaps. The side, shoulder and sleeve seams are triple stitched and there is one stitched eyelet hole under each arm. There are rectangular patches over each elbow on the back of the sleeves and the cuffs fasten with a single button. All of the buttons are black plastic with a centre metal pin. Size 50. Spare button attached to care label.
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: Japan
Country of Design: England
Country of Manufacture: Japan
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
Accruals
System of arrangement
Conditions of access and use area
Conditions governing access
Conditions governing reproduction
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Script of material
Language and script notes
Physical characteristics and technical requirements
Label: Nigel Cabourn / 50
Care label: 8050210003 / Wool 54% / Cotton 24% / Linen 22% / ABAHOUSE INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD. / http://www.cabourn.jp/ / MADE IN JAPAN
Materials: wool, cotton and linen mix, cotton, plastic
Care label: 8050210003 / Wool 54% / Cotton 24% / Linen 22% / ABAHOUSE INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD. / http://www.cabourn.jp/ / MADE IN JAPAN
Materials: wool, cotton and linen mix, cotton, plastic