Item 2020.21.1 - Wool Facecloth Frock Coat

Long frock coat made from beige-pink wool facecloth (a woven wool with a felted nap), features cutaway fronts and is adorned with ten large faceted and cut steel metal buttons along the right front opening. Opposite, on the left side, are ten wide, corded non-functional buttonholes. The coat has a 5 cm collar and deep turnback cuffs on the narrow, fitted sleeves. The torso is closely fitted, with the coat fronts curving away to form a wide opening at hip level, revealing two side-hip pockets with deep flaps.

The back of the coat has a long centre vent extending to hip level. At the top of doubled inverted pleats on either side of the vent opening, aligned with the rear side seams, is a faceted and cut steel button, enhancing the fullness of the coat's skirt. Near the bottom hem on either side of the centre vent are two additional matching faceted steel buttons. The coat fronts are lined in pale pink silk.

From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

WOOL FACECLOTH FROCK COAT
Maker unknown
1785–95
Entirely hand-stitched, this frock coat epitomizes the craftsmanship and skill of English tailoring at the end of the eighteenth century and belonged to the wardrobe of Thomas Crewe Dod (1754–1827) of Edge Hall, Cheshire. Made of fine wool facecloth, it is lined in silk and the coat fronts are
accessorized with ornamental cut-steel buttons. Facecloths are wools woven with a twill or satin weave, processed to raise the pile of the fabric, and then processed again to create a smooth surface. The felted density of the cloth means that cut edges will not fray and men’s clothing made of this high quality wool have unfinished raw edges on show, including this frock coat.
Wool, Silk, Steel
Archive no. 2020.21.1