Item 2020.19 - Martine Rose Printed Denim Jacket

Identity area

Reference code

2020.19

Title

Martine Rose Printed Denim Jacket

Date(s)

  • Spring Summer 2012 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

(2007-)

Administrative history

Martine Rose was founded in 2007 by designer Martine Rose (b. 1980), who launched the brand with a collection of ten shirts at Blacks private members club in London’s Soho. Martine Rose developed a distinct aesthetic inspired by 1990s South London subcultures, which drew the attention of Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East. Kennedy assisted Martine Rose in creating an installation for the first menswear day of London Fashion Week in September 2010. The label’s collections were then exhibited as part of the collective MAN shows until September 2012, when the brand debuted its first solo runway show. In 2012 Martine Rose was awarded NEWGEN sponsorship by the British Fashion Council for four seasons. Martine Rose was nominated for the ANDAM Award for emerging designers in 2017 and shortlisted for the LVMH Prize. She served as a consultant for Balenciaga’s menswear line from 2017 to 2019, collaborating with creative director Demna Gvasalia. Tomorrow London Ltd, an international fashion distribution and sales company, acquired a 60 per cent stake in the label in October 2021. Martine Rose received an undisclosed equity stake in the Tomorrow business as part of the deal. The label has collaborated with Gucci Vault, Tommy Hilfiger, Timberland, Nike, Caterpillar and Napapijri.
Sources: Drapers; Business of Fashion.

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Content and structure area

Scope and content

White cotton denim jacket with an all-over print in black, red, purple, green, yellow, orange, pale blue and pink. The print design includes words such as 'WILD BOY', 'Faster' 'VORTEX' and 'Martine Rose'; symbols including the CND peace sign; images and animal prints. It has a turndown collar and fastens centre front with eight copper-coloured metal buttons. The same buttons fasten each cuff and the adjustment tabs at each side of the back waistband. The upper centre back has two curved triangular shaped cut-outs. Faded cotton label in the back of the neck.

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Label: MARTINE / ROSE
      Materials: cotton, metal
      Measurements:
      Chest 104cm
      Waist (from 6th button) 88cm
      Button stand length 52cm
      Arm length 64.5cm
      Centre back from nape 60.5cm
      Shoulder width 44.5cm

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      Note

      Design shown as part of Look 7 of the Martine Rose Spring Summer 2012 collection, shown at Fashion East MAN show, 23 November 2011. It was paired with a white shirt and long shorts in the same printed denim. This was the final collection of Martine Rose under Fashion East.

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