Item 2019.24.2 - Comme des Garçons Boot Print Waistcoat

Identity area

Reference code

2019.24.2

Title

Comme des Garçons Boot Print Waistcoat

Date(s)

  • Spring Summer 1995 (Creation)

Level of description

Item

Extent and medium

1

Context area

Name of creator

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
(1984-)

Administrative history

The main menswear line of Comme des Garçons designed by Rei Kawakubo.

Repository

Westminster Menswear Archive

Archival history

Immediate source of acquisition or transfer

Content and structure area

Scope and content

Waistcoat made from black gabardine wool fabric, fastening at the front with five plastic buttons. It features a flap pocket at waist level on either side of the front opening. The reverse has two adjustable tabs that fasten with a metal buckle to allow for a customised fit. The waistcoat is printed with boot prints, Union flags, and scattered numerals.

Appraisal, destruction and scheduling

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      Physical characteristics and technical requirements

      Label: Comme Des Garcons / Homme / S
      Materials: Wool
      Measurements [Approx.]: 53cm [Chest]
      Details: Button fastening; pockets
      Physical Condition: Good

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      Notes area

      Note

      Invisible Men exhibition label:

      BOOT PRINT WAISTCOAT AND TROUSERS
      Comme des Garcons Homme Plus
      1995

      Comme des Garcons Spring Summer 1995 Sleep collection became infamous as it was interpreted as referencing Nazi Germany concentration camp prisoners’ clothing. Garments from the collection featured boot prints, stencilled numbers and outfits including striped pyjamas. Designer Rei Kawakubo withdrew the pyjamas from sale, though other pieces of the collection still went into production.

      Wool
      Archive no. 2019.24.2 and 2019.113

      Note

      From Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive:

      BOOT PRINT WAISTCOAT
      Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
      Spring Summer 1995
      ‘Sleep’, Comme des Garçons’ Spring Summer 1995 collection, gained notoriety after journalists interpreted the collection as referencing the uniforms worn by concentration camp inmates in Nazi Germany. Several garments featured military boot prints or stencilled numbers, while others
      resembled striped pyjamas. This wool waistcoat has had multiple boot marks and numbers stencilled onto it after it was produced. The boot prints could be interpreted as evidence of an assault against the garment’s previous owner and the stencilled numbers could be viewed as a reference to the identification numbers that were used within the concentration camps as a means of dehumanizing prisoners. While the label withdrew the pyjamas from sale, other items from the collection went into production.
      Wool
      Archive no. 2019.24.2

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      Dates of creation revision deletion

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          Sources

          Agata Zborowska, ‘Uses and abuses of history: A case of a Comme des Garçons fashion show’, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 5:2 (2014), 233-252

          Brownie, Barbara. 'Controversial Catwalk: Comme des Garçons’ “Sleep” Collection, 1995' Fashion Photography Archive. London: Bloomsbury, 2015. Bloomsbury Fashion Central. Web. 23 Mar. 2021. http://dx.doi.org.uow.idm.oclc.org/10.5040/9781474260428-FPA366 .

          Accession area