Item 2016.320 - Adam Marc James Smock

Smock or cagoule made of camouflage print fabric with hood and drawstring fastenings. The camouflage design has been printed, part of the design is reflective. Elements of the pattern have been filled in by hand with gold and copper coloured strokes. Part of outfit for Look 5 of James's graduate collection.

James used a pattern taken from 1980’s vintage K-WAY which was then adapted. The reflective camouflage cotton fabric was found as deadstock roll from Brick Lane market. He paid £1 a metre for the lot and then used extra large gold and bronze POSCA markers to hand draw the gold parts directly onto the fabric. The laser cut bonded pockets on sleeve and gold work around the zip at chest pocket (and zip pullers / reflective bungee cord) were donated after a visit of James to Berghaus in Sunderland.

Country of Design: United Kingdom
Country of Manufacture: United Kingdom

Adam Marc James press release, 2014:
The Dancing Marquis Collection, Autumn Winter 2014

'Loosely based on the life of Henry Paget, the 5th Marquis of Anglesey, the collection re-imagines the Marquis as a 21st century man. The collection draws on the merging of soft loungewear separates with the security of high performance sportswear as he walks from his bed directly to the English countryside in the dead of night, plagued by his inability to sleep....In 1890 Henry Paget, the 5th Marquis of Anglesey, nicknamed 'Toppy' inherited his title and the family estates between Staffordshire, Dorset, Anglesey and Derbyshire.'

Invisible Men exhibition label:

CAMOUFLAGE SMOCK, SEQUIN TROUSERS AND PITH HELMET
Adam Marc James
2014

Based on a vintage 1980s K-Way Cagoule, this smock formed part of James’ graduation collection at the University of Westminster. It is constructed from reflective camouflage cotton that has a gold and bronze pattern hand-drawn onto it evoking early twentieth -century hand-painted military camouflage uniforms.

Cotton
Archive no. 2016.320 and 2016.319 and 2016.312